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Wednesday 22 June 2016

1912 Post-Edwardian Tea Gown

Have I mentioned I love my job?  Like really love my job?  To commemorate the suffragette movement in Alberta the Legislature organized a costumed-rally  and invited Fort Edmonton staff to join.  What fun!  Of course I volunteered.  While I didn't actually get to attend because I'm a klutz and injured my foot, I did make this little beauty.



I based my outfit on this fashion plate:
Ladies Home Journal, January 1912
Soutache: check.  Pattern I already have: check.  Excuse to re-design my boater: check.  Use only stash materials: check.

I used a lovely aqua-coloured linen with white soutache for the gown.  The blouse is made from ikea curtains originally destined for a regency gown, but alas.


The pattern sews together beautifully.  I used the same pattern for Mrs Banks so I was able to whip it together quickly.  I did interface the facings as soutache appreciates a little something to hold on to.  The bodice and skirt hem don't have facings in the pattern so I quickly drafted them.  The other change I made to the pattern, which was more time consuming than it needed to be was that I removed the pleat from the skirt.  It made me look a tad more poochy than I really needed it to...
Butterick 6093, 1912


I wanted to keep the pretty tulip hem without the pleat.  I'm sure the lack of tea contributed to my troubles.  I swear it took longer to redraft that one piece than it did to sew the damn thing together!

Once the pattern was in order it assembled super quickly.  I made my soutache template as usual, marking the intersections with my iron-away marker.  And then, I soutached.  And soutached.  And soutached.  

Just keep stitching...
I'm quite pleased with the result!  It hangs beautifully and gives a lovely post-Edwardian silhouette.  I'm reserving the full photo for post-CoCo so patience, dear friends!  But, here's a sneak peek:



Cheers,
~M

Sunday 19 June 2016

Catching Up & Francaise Progress

The spring got away from me a little.  And by a little I mean HOLY HELL I WAS BUSY!  I adore my new job, but it was crazy costuming so many people on such short notice.  Such is the way of the world!  I'm so thankful for the opportunity.  That said, I've had little time to focus on NutmegSews.

At the end of May, Regency Encounters held a Regency Fashion Fair to outfit all our newcomers with Regency regalia.  How exciting!  I jumped at the chance to participate.  I had a comprehensive plan to make all kinds of ready-made items in all sizes and styles.  Because of all the free time I have.  *eye roll*  I did get a few items ready to sell, plus I had a ton of patterns and fans to offer.

It was a huge success!  For my first craft sale I'm exceedingly pleased with the result.  I worked hard at making sure my booth was on brand and welcoming to guests.  B even came with to be the money-taker, simple-question-answerer, bag-boy, etc.  I spent most of the time discussing custom orders with clients and he sold the ready-made items.  I'm glad I didn't finish all the dresses I planned to as most people want something made just for them.  I finished a few sample dresses in my size so we could discuss styles and desires on the spot.

It was so fun to meet all the new people to our little Regency Community!  I'm delighted they've found us.  With all the events coming up this summer and fall, I'm now booked until November.  YAY!

That's in addition to Costume College..

Right.  Costume College.  It kind of snuck up on me.  Best laid plans and all that.

My Robe a la Francaise is coming along.  I FINALLY dug it out of it's laundry basket this week.  Yes, I use laundry baskets for fabric.  Turns out I was a bit farther than I remembered.  I've draped the back panels and tacked them together to trim to size.  Now I need to remove the tacking, cut the other side, and sew together properly.  The petticoat is hemmed and now on Judy pleated and ready to be sewn into the ties.  Now I need to drape the front and the sleeves.

I've started to think about how I'm going to decorate the dress.  I really love the skirt on this guy:
From the MET collection, 1750-75:
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81655?rpp=30&pg=24&rndkey=20141205&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.%2B1600-1800&pos=713&imgNo=0&tabName=related-objects
For the sleeves and robings I'll go with something like this:
Portrait of a Lady by French School, ca 1772-85 France, the Bowes Museum
I did find one in almost an identical print that has self-decoration, but I have a fondness for silk organza so I'll just do pleated rows of that.  I still have no idea what I'm doing for the stomacher.  That's future Meg's problem.  Likely lots of bows, because BOWS!

And that's it for now, friends.  I'm snowed under with commissions.  Back to sewing!

Cheers,
~M