2018 Planning

Okay, I know it's already a quarter into 2018 and maybe a little late to start planning out my sewing. As always, sewing plans revolve around Costume College. If you're not familiar with Costume College, check it out here. The theme this year is Dressing the Royals, which means pull out all the stops! It will be glitz and glam all weekend. You know me, any excuse to wear a tiara...

Last year, I planned on making a fully beaded Queen Maud gown. With my internship I knew it wasn't possible, so thought I could make it work for this year. Every time I started it, something went wrong. I tried things multiple ways, but it just wasn't happening. I finally realised this just isn't the year for it. I love this dress, and maybe one year I'll go for it, but not 2018. And I'm okay with that.

Queen Maud of Norway Gown, 1912, House of Worth. 

So, what should I make? The worst question. Pinterest to the rescue. As I just finished an Edwardian suit in January I have a lovely new set of early 1900s underpinnings. My aim was to find something to go with the accessories and underpinnings I already have. These two lovely ladies popped up:

Queen Maud of Norway Gown, 1906-7

An Evening Gown of Black chiffon, ca. 1900

I love both (how could you not?). I decided to use my beloved chartreuse silk satin for the project. I just happened to find the most divine embroidered tulle online, and matching ribbon flowers. So, frilly, fluffy option A it is.

It won't be the most historically accurate piece, which I'm okay with. The tulle is lovely and soft, but nylon. I'll bead some of the flowers as well to give a similar effect to the original. I just didn't have it in me to tambour and bead an entire gown of silk tulle. I bought all the flowers I need, yet might make a few if there's any leftover silk (the chartreuse is mauve on the back!).

I'm pleased to be making a Queen Maud gown. It's a lovely substitute for the beaded gown.  One day, dear friend. One day.

I'm itching to start now that I have all my materials. Alas, school. I have just over a month before I'm done. I'll be focusing on that for the next few weeks, and then can properly focus on my gala gown. If I get it done in time I can start on our Bath 2019 wardrobe, but that's another post for another time.

Cheers,
~M

Regency Hair

With another ball coming soon I thought it would be a good idea to put together a few reference materials. Through doing various Regency events I've got my hair to a science, but that's not for everyone. I try to recreate the hairstyles as best as I can; however, I know not everyone is THAT interested in historical accuracy.

For Edmonton's purposes, "Regency" means early 1800s to 1820s, so you'll notice I've got a pretty wide range here :)

Whatever your level of interest in historical accuracy, here are some great resources that I've found helpful during my Regency events. You can do these yourself! For those that know me, a bun is the fanciest I can muster. I've found knowing my hair texture and it's possibilities helps. Whether you attempt these on your own or get someone else to have a go, I hope this helps!

First, your hair should be up. A simple bun will get you pretty far!

1797 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

One of the things I love about this image is that you get a great side view! It's a simple bun with a few ribbons tied around the head and a few curly bangs. Simple, right?

You'll see many variations in Regency portraiture:

Baronesse Mathieu de Favier, Marquise de Jaucourt by François-Pascal-Simon Gérard, called Baron Gérard (auctioned by Christie's). Napoléonic Baroness de Favier wears a dress with a criss-cross bodice filled in with a modesty piece

Okay, I know this is a group of modern interpretations, but they are recognizable references for most :)

Firmin Massot (Genève, 1766 – Genève, 1849) Portrait de Madame Jean-Gabriel Eynard, née Anne Charlotte Adélaïde Lullin de Châteauvieux (1793-1868), dite Anna Lullin, vers 1810 Huile sur toile Copyright: MAH, photo: B. Jacot-Descombes Inv. 1996-1

Jean-Pierre de Saint-Ours Portrait of a Young Woman Early 19th century

You'll notice that when the front is parted, it is parted in the centre of the head. If you have bangs, curl 'em. If you don't, you could add a few faux curl pieces to the front. This tutorial from Kosha the Cat is super helpful if you want to go that route. Sally Beauty has lots of varieties of hair lengths, but I'd advise shorter ones where possible.  Too long and they get crazy. Also, a tip: DON'T try and curl your hair pieces the day of the event! Give yourself time. Depending on the type of hair you get it could need quite a bit of heat or to be soaked in boiling water.

If you don't have or want bangs...

https://locksofelegance.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/braided-regency-hairstyle/

BRAIDS! I've often seen a mix of curls and braids, or just plain braids. I'm sure that's a response to the fact that some peoples' hair just doesn't curl! Note that most braids are NOT French braids. They are simple strands braided. Especially helpful if you have crazy long or thick hair (like me) and a bun just can't hold it all. I like to braid a few side pieces and wrap them around my bun, as above.

Here's another tutorial, though this lady has VERY long hair: https://youtu.be/bQXu9enBrK0

OR, if you're feeling uber fancy:  https://youtu.be/jGpJOSem5gE

You'll see a lot of Grecian influence in Regency styles. See the top right one? VERY short hair in the 'Titus' style. If you've got something like a pixie cut, you're set! It wasn't overly common, but it does appear from time to time in original images.

Directoire 1795-1799

If your hair is too short to go up, but you also can't work a Titus cut, a turban is a great option! (Also helpful is you can't be bothered to do your hair!). I have a whole Pinterest board of them here.

Evening dresses, 1810 :: Fashion Plate Collection, 19th Century

Fashions of London and Paris, Evening Dresses, March 1811.

You can make a turban in a couple different ways. The easiest way is to tie a scarf around your head. See this tutorial here for directions. Use the tail of the scarf to your advantage!

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/eb/9c/ae/eb9cae7935dbdddad9ef5d629f39b350.jpg

If you want something more like a hat that you put on and it's done, this is your best bet from Festive Attyre. You can make this one either a bit floppy or quite structured depending on your style.

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2014/06/regency-turban-cap-tutorial.html

Here's another one from The Modern Mantua-Maker. Add ribbons and gathers to your heart's content!

https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/2013/12/10/regency-ball-ensemble-post-3-the-turban/

I hope this helps you prep for the ball! All my images and a few extra can be found on my Pinterest page here.

If this tutorial is helpful do let me know in the comments. I'd love to do more on accessories and silhouette.

My 18th Century Virginian Summer - Month One

I've been at the Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop for a month now (!). It's hard to put in to words how much I'm learning.  But I'll sure try...

There's of course the technical skills. I've learned so many new techniques!  New stitches, when and where to use them, assembly techniques, trim details, etc. There are so many ways in which my sewing will never be the same again. Gah! Eight weeks is not enough time. I'm beginning to understand why the apprenticeship process is 5 years.

If there's any place to do eighteenth-century research, it's Colonial Williamsburg. Not only do they have a wonderful collection and group of curators, but the knowledge base of the tradespeople and interpreters is greater than I anticipated. As I sew my way through a garment and little research nuggets pop into my head I can just ask, "why am I doing this? Where can I go to find more info? What extant garments have [ruffles, trim, stitching] like this?" I always knew this was the place for me to connect making and research, but I didn't comprehend the depths of research knowledge.

Many staff members have devoted their lives to re-enacting and interpreting. They not only are in costume during the day to help guide visitors or actively work a trade, but they also develop their own research interests based on their work. The depths to which people are willing to share their knowledge is overwhelming. (Seriously, don't start a conversation unless you're prepared to finish it!  😆 )

The biggest challenge I've had in Master's work so far is connecting my sewing knowledge to extant garments through secondary sources. We need the secondary sources to support interpretation of extant garments, but they are not enough. Working in a site like CW where I have ready access to research materials of all kinds is wonderful, but it's a Mecca for textile research. Many of the garments discussed in research articles, like Baumgarten, are housed on site (Linda Baumgarten is the former curator at CW. If you haven't read her work do it NOW).

I'm well on my way to completing my independent project, which of course is an overly ambitious complete outfit. See the lady on the right below.

John Collet, Publisher Carington Bowles, BACHELORS FARE, or BREAD and CHEESE with KISSES, England, London, ca. 1770, Black and white mezzotint with period hand color, Museum Purchase, Acc. No. 1962-204,

http://emuseum.history.org/view/objects/asitem/Objects@18044/80/title-desc?t:state:flow=597f49a5-db40-4deb-8f0c-9ba49bfa9397

The silk quilted petticoat is quilted. I just have the hem binding, pocket slits, and waistband to finish. I made the apron last week, the kerchief and most of the ruffles yesterday. The bows shouldn't take long so I'll likely get those done this week depending on how things go. The gown is the next big piece. Of course I need someone to pattern it for me (oh how I wish I could do that myself!). The gown itself isn't particularly complicated. The trim will take me a good amount of time as it will require a bit of trial and error. 

Caps are my nemesis. The one I made early in my internship almost killed my hands. I learned a new way to do rolled hems, so I anticipate less freak out from my hands, but I'd rather be prepared for the worst case scenario in which I don't get it done rather than push to the point where I can't use my hands at all. I have offers of help from my lovely co-workers as they are eager to see it completed, too!

I'm busily embroiled in schoolwork as well. Internships aren't just sewing projects, much to my chagrin.  I have weekly assignments to complete where I connect my sewing and research, plus a final paper I'm gearing up for. I did a research project in the spring where I connected the physicality of sewing to interpreting the past. Perfectly timed for a project like this. 

I've been ruminating on the process of sewing. I'm learning at such a fast pace that it's difficult to keep up with the reflection needed for a project like this. I've been thinking about how my sewing has changed over the past few weeks. The thought of making something entirely by hand has always intimidated me, if for no other reason than I wasn't sure my hands could handle it. But they can! It took a few weeks for them to acclimatize to sewing 40 hours a week (they prefer 32 hours 😆), but now things are easier. I'm still working on consistency, but I can do the tiny stitches and hand bound eyelets without consideration. I can do it without a machine. I can create with my hands alone. This is something that will forever change my sewing and who I am as a sewist. 

As if I needed another reason for fierce independence... 

I'm also fighting the clock to finish my Costume College gala gown in time. I've calculated about 25 hours worth of work left to do. I'm focusing on completing all the components right now so I can get them put together fairly quickly if needed. I've finally finished the sleeve petals, which are fiddly little scallops bound in bias. Now I get to move onto the skirt petals, which are just bigger scallops bound in bias. Eep!

Plus I need to finish my presentation for Costume College. I know what I want to say, and I have most of the pictures I need thanks to my FEP family. It's mostly planned in my head, but it's probably not more than 25% done.  That's what cross-country plane rides are for, yes?

So, that's the scoop. I'm doing all the things as per usual. But it's perfect :)

Gala Gown 2017

As I planned out my sewing for Costume College this year I had to rethink all my plans. I had planned a huge project that involved a fully beaded 1912 gown. Between school and now my internship, it wasn't going to happen. Maybe next year.

I settled on this floofy number:

1828 Dress, Victoria and Albert Museum

I've never been interested in the 1820s to 30s look.  But something about this dress took me in.  The more I read about it and discovered it was likely made from 18th century fabric, the more I fell in love. Plus, it's a fairly simple design. With the right fabric it could be a fancy frock.  And those bias scallops! Yum!

Finding fabric was the tricky part. I wanted an 18th century-esque stripe that was ideally green and purple. Alas, no such fabric could be procured. I was lucky enough to hit up the LA garment district on reading week and found some green and gold stripe that suits perfectly. You'll have to wait and see the final dress ;)

I got my corded petticoat done just in time to leave for CW.  Literally.  Just in time.  Like 3 hours before I left my house. Ugh.  I already hate it and wish I could remake it, but whatever. I hope it does the job. 

I brought all my sewing supplies with me and am slowing moving through the process. At first I was concerned about hand sewing the entire thing because it was going to take forever.  And I remembered, I'm here to hand sew everything... so yeah, that works out well. *face palm* 

I've cut all the pieces and am carefully hoarding them in my room.  The only part I'm not doing by hand is the making the piping.  I visited a friend with a zipper foot this week so it's all ready to go! Now I just need to get sewing. The dress itself should be fairly straightforward. As you see all the front panels are at an angle and match stripes.  By hand is definitely the way to go! 

All the bias!

The last piece I need to figure out it is the sleeve supports. I'm using silk taffeta that will need a little help staying afloat. I'll be following this tutorial from Fresh Frippery as a simple way to add a little floof. I love the idea of using tulle so they stay light and fluffy.

I also need to make a hair piece.  I'm terrible when it comes to doing my own hair. I've got a good grasp on regency, so I'll use that knowledge to make this work.  I'm planning to do something like this: 

1828 Abendfrisur

I bought all the necessary pieces with me and will attempt to make something passable while I'm here. I may invest in a foam head as that will be easier to hold things in place.  Fingers crossed!

Hopefully it'll be done before I go! I'm looking forward to hand sewing a gown. I'm feeling more confident in my hand sewing skills so this is a perfect opportunity to show them off!

And thankfully it'll fit perfectly in the July challenge for the Historical Sew Monthly.  I'll complete at least one challenge this year. ;)

Cheers,

~M

Settling In with Gratitude

I'm starting to settle in to Colonial life. I'm two weeks in to my internship now. I've made a few friends. I've joined a dance group for the summer. I have a routine. I can successfully lace my stays in less than 5 minutes each morning.

But as with all happy endings they start with a bit of trouble. Week one consisted of me wandering in the heat and humidity several times, once I ended up with a bit of heat stroke. C'est la vie. It wouldn't be me if I didn't make a few poor decisions along the way.

Williamsburg has a company called Lyft, which is basically Uber or Tap car.  They have Uber too, but it always says there are no cars in my area and I have to pay more for a fancier car.  Seriously Uber, get it together. Now that I have more access to transportation, and am willing to ask for help if needed (no, seriously. It happened!), it's a little easier to get my bearings. I've only been super homesick once so far. I've been far too busy!

I've been working on lots of projects at work. So far I've worked on a pin cushion, work bag, quilted petticoat, gown and petticoat in a day, a cap, and fringe trim. My stitches are getting smaller and more consistent. I've gone from 8 stitches per inch to about 20 per inch without difficulty.

In a few weeks I'll be jetting off to Costume College. I barely had time to finish my corded petticoat before I left let alone my gala gown. A blog post with more on that coming soon! I'll be hand sewing my gown if for no other reason than I'm hand sewing everything else so might as well.

For now, I'll leave off with a huge thank you to my community. If it wasn't for you I wouldn't be here. Truly! I wouldn't be making amazing things and meeting wonderful people. This internship was almost entirely funded by you! I hope I can do your generosity proud.

Cheers,
~M

Adventure Awaits!

I've been a tad absent since the start of the year.  I just started my Master's degree in January, which was, well... I survived.  I'll just leave it at that.

As part of my degree I can take an internship (and get credit). When an opportunity popped up, on Facebook of all places, for an internship at Colonial Williamsburg I knew I had to apply. I think it's fairly competitive, and wasn't expecting to be accepted. The fact that I got an interview made me really proud of myself! But, I did get it.  I GOT IT!

Oh man, that was the easy part. Between figuring out how things would go through school and work, figuring out finances, not receiving any travel grants I applied for, and trying to figure out if a visa was needed... it's been quite the journey to get here. I was fairly convinced it wasn't going to happen. But here we are, a few days before I leave, and I've finally realized that I'm going to Virginia.  Like, on Monday...

Super excited to learn from the Journeywomen at Colonial Williamsburg, but I'm also delighted to spend the summer in Virginia. It holds a special place in my family history. When my Great Grandfather (John Smith, no joke!) first landed in North America he came to Virginia. He thought it was the most beautiful place he'd ever seen. When he returned to Wales and my Grandmother was born a few years later she was given the middle name Virginia. And I was named after her.  I've driven through the state before, but as a small child. Now I get to go and see what my Great Grandfather saw in this place. I get to live in the place that holds such a key piece to my family's history.  I'm delighted!

Even better is that I get to spend 8 weeks in the Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. There's so many things I want to learn! I was to learn whipped gathers and how to make a giant floofy cap. I desperately need to understand how eighteenth century sleeves are set in because I cannot for the life of me figure that out! And I want to know how to bind stays in leather, how to make trims, etc. I'll totally be in knowledge sponge mode!

Watch this space for regular updates. I'll be blogging more frequently, but differently than before. It will be more about the adventure of it all rather than strictly documenting sewing projects like usual.

I'm still attending Costume College at the end of July. I was hoping to have everything done by the time I leave, but alas. I'm fairly certain my Gala gown will be entirely hand sewn as I just need to get other projects done before I go.  As long as I can conquer that blasted corded petticoat, I'm fine.  It'll be fine.

I have three more days of work, one day off to pack, and then I leave Monday!  Please take this time to sacrifice a chicken (or tofu, whatevs) in my honour to the travel gods.

If you're on Instagram, watch the hashtag #yegsewistdoesCW for hilarious and awkward travel photos. Silly faces abound.

See you in Virginia!
~M

Vintage Capsule Wardrobe Update - Simplicity 1590 Blouse

I've been working my way towards a capsule wardrobe for some time.  A capsule wardrobe (at least my interpretation) is one where you own less items of clothing, but they all coordinate.  It avoids the daily 'what should I wear?'  or 'where's the matching blouse?'.  And since I'm truly lazy about mornings (seriously, just bring me tea and back away!), it helps that I can just grab whatever is clean and looked put together.

For my capsule, I've selected purple, blue/navy, turquoise, and green, with the occasional hint of yellow accessories.  Black and white are acceptable as long as they match at least three outfits.  I tend towards more vintage styles anyway so it just made sense to focus on using more vintage patterns for the items I make.

Enter the Vintage Capsule Wardrobe Sewing group!  First, so lovely!  We may not be interested in the same era or colour-scheme, but it's wonderful to have a like-minded group for encouragement.  For December they've created a blouse sew-along.  I struggle with blouses!  It's so much more fun to make a fancy frock or skirt so that's where I focus my energy, but with my job now being in a costume shop trousers and a top are much easier!

 

I picked out several items to sew for December.  Ideally, I'd like to get three finished before I start school in January as who knows what my time will be like!

 

I started with one that's been in the UFO (unfinished object) pile for longer than I'm willing to admit.  I found some lovely green rayon with navy dots awhile back and decided it would be great for Simplicity 1590.  So cute, right?

 

I couldn't remember how far I'd gotten, but I just had to finish it first.  And I did!  I basically had to finish the front edges of the peplum and buttons and buttonholes.  No idea why I left it when it was so close to being done! 

 

The pattern instructions were a bit interesting.  As always, I wrinkled my nose and made up my own. 

One new blouse in the closet!  Huzzah!