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Showing posts with label AustenYEG. Show all posts
Showing posts with label AustenYEG. Show all posts

Sunday, 27 August 2017

Regency Hair


With another ball coming soon I thought it would be a good idea to put together a few reference materials. Through doing various Regency events I've got my hair to a science, but that's not for everyone. I try to recreate the hairstyles as best as I can; however, I know not everyone is THAT interested in historical accuracy.

For Edmonton's purposes, "Regency" means early 1800s to 1820s, so you'll notice I've got a pretty wide range here :)

Whatever your level of interest in historical accuracy, here are some great resources that I've found helpful during my Regency events. You can do these yourself! For those that know me, a bun is the fanciest I can muster. I've found knowing my hair texture and it's possibilities helps. Whether you attempt these on your own or get someone else to have a go, I hope this helps!

First, your hair should be up. A simple bun will get you pretty far!

1797 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

One of the things I love about this image is that you get a great side view! It's a simple bun with a few ribbons tied around the head and a few curly bangs. Simple, right?

You'll see many variations in Regency portraiture:

Baronesse Mathieu de Favier, Marquise de Jaucourt by François-Pascal-Simon Gérard, called Baron Gérard (auctioned by Christie's). Napoléonic Baroness de Favier wears a dress with a criss-cross bodice filled in with a modesty piece
Okay, I know this is a group of modern interpretations, but they are recognizable references for most :)

Firmin Massot (Genève, 1766 – Genève, 1849) Portrait de Madame Jean-Gabriel Eynard, née Anne Charlotte Adélaïde Lullin de Châteauvieux (1793-1868), dite Anna Lullin, vers 1810 Huile sur toile Copyright: MAH, photo: B. Jacot-Descombes Inv. 1996-1

Jean-Pierre de Saint-Ours Portrait of a Young Woman Early 19th century

You'll notice that when the front is parted, it is parted in the centre of the head. If you have bangs, curl 'em. If you don't, you could add a few faux curl pieces to the front. This tutorial from Kosha the Cat is super helpful if you want to go that route. Sally Beauty has lots of varieties of hair lengths, but I'd advise shorter ones where possible.  Too long and they get crazy. Also, a tip: DON'T try and curl your hair pieces the day of the event! Give yourself time. Depending on the type of hair you get it could need quite a bit of heat or to be soaked in boiling water.

If you don't have or want bangs...

https://locksofelegance.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/braided-regency-hairstyle/

BRAIDS! I've often seen a mix of curls and braids, or just plain braids. I'm sure that's a response to the fact that some peoples' hair just doesn't curl! Note that most braids are NOT French braids. They are simple strands braided. Especially helpful if you have crazy long or thick hair (like me) and a bun just can't hold it all. I like to braid a few side pieces and wrap them around my bun, as above.

Here's another tutorial, though this lady has VERY long hair: https://youtu.be/bQXu9enBrK0

OR, if you're feeling uber fancy:  https://youtu.be/jGpJOSem5gE

You'll see a lot of Grecian influence in Regency styles. See the top right one? VERY short hair in the 'Titus' style. If you've got something like a pixie cut, you're set! It wasn't overly common, but it does appear from time to time in original images.

Directoire 1795-1799
If your hair is too short to go up, but you also can't work a Titus cut, a turban is a great option! (Also helpful is you can't be bothered to do your hair!). I have a whole Pinterest board of them here.

Evening dresses, 1810 :: Fashion Plate Collection, 19th Century
Fashions of London and Paris, Evening Dresses, March 1811.
You can make a turban in a couple different ways. The easiest way is to tie a scarf around your head. See this tutorial here for directions. Use the tail of the scarf to your advantage!

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/eb/9c/ae/eb9cae7935dbdddad9ef5d629f39b350.jpg
If you want something more like a hat that you put on and it's done, this is your best bet from Festive Attyre. You can make this one either a bit floppy or quite structured depending on your style.

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2014/06/regency-turban-cap-tutorial.html
Here's another one from The Modern Mantua-Maker. Add ribbons and gathers to your heart's content!

https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/2013/12/10/regency-ball-ensemble-post-3-the-turban/

I hope this helps you prep for the ball! All my images and a few extra can be found on my Pinterest page here.

If this tutorial is helpful do let me know in the comments. I'd love to do more on accessories and silhouette.


Tuesday, 8 November 2016

1805 Summer Bonnet

Oh my heavens!  I completely forgot to tell you all about my summer bonnet.  Let me do so now.

After last summer's Promenade I wanted a light, airy bonnet for the inconsistent summer here in Alberta.  June could snow, rain, or scorch us, or quite possibly all three!  July is usually quite warm.  August could be the same as June, though typically in the reverse order.  (I promise I don't jest!  It snowed the day after our end of August wedding)

I discovered this lovely bonnet by FestiveAttyre:

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2010/07/building-straw-braid-bonnet.html?m=1

The unlined straw is exactly what I'd been looking for!  While in LA I discovered California Millinery, which has an entire section of straw braids of every shape and colour.  I came home with three different kinds, one being a navy blue that would suit my outfit nicely.

Festive Attyre's blog was the only useful source I could find regarding where to start.  I tried a few Facebook groups, but they all suggested a buckram base, which I was hoping to avoid.  As usual, I just decided to give it a go and hope for the best.

I made my frame out of bristol board, did a quick check for fit and shape, and then started pinning my straw.  As I only had a short length I decided to start with the brim and work backwards.  I was hoping for a longer bonnet, but buying materials in a foreign place with a long line behind you makes it nearly impossible to think straight.

I quickly spritzed my straw with water before starting to pin it to the base.  It did nothing to help and I was so frustrated I nearly gave up on the whole thing.  I remembered reading something somewhere about soaking straw to get it to behave, but only for a short time.  I soaked my straw for 25 seconds in tepid water until the dye started to leak out and I panicked and pulled it out.  I let it sit in a strainer for a few minutes before starting.



You'll notice I wrapped my base in plastic wrap so it didn't get too wet.



From there I just started pinning.  And pinning.  And pinning.



The dye didn't fade at all to the naked eye, but my hands were purple-ish blue for a week!

I decided to pin the entire thing before sewing as I thought for sure I'd make a mess of it.  By the time I finished pinning the crown the brim was dry enough to start sewing.  I used a sturdy thread and just started stitching, removing the pins and I went.

 

I wanted the brim flipped under at the back so I basically just made a bucket hat.  It was a rather boring shape until I flipped the back, close pinned it in place, and let it dry again before stitching it down.

While waiting for it to dry we went to Chintz and Co.  It's one of our favourite stores, though we mostly spend time at the back in the fabric section.  It's the only place in Edmonton you can get really nice quality silks and velvets.  They are mostly a home decor store and so have excellent quality petersham and faux flowers.  I was able to grab a few items to match my bonnet, and then finish that same evening.

Ta da!



My very, very late HSM entry:
What the item is: Regency Summer Bonnet
The Challenge: #6 Travel
Fabric/Materials: Straw braid, faux flowers, feathers, 
Pattern: My own
Year: 1805
Notions: thread, ribbon
How historically accurate is it? Very.  Based on a fashion plate from 1805 and entirely hand-made
Hours to complete: Oi.  About 16-20
First worn: August 21st, 2016
Total cost: $40 CAD



A bonnet fit for a good frolic!



Tuesday, 25 October 2016

Pride and Prejudice Ball 2016

O.  M.  G.

I've scarcely had time to sleep let alone to write!  What an adventure the past few months have been.  After the May Regency Costume Fair I met so many lovely new clients!  Gowns and tailcoats were ordered.  Fabric purchased.  Mock ups were made and fitted.

And then at the second Costume Fair in September I had more inquiries about custom gowns!  With the ball fast approaching I hunkered down and put the pedal to the metal, so to speak.  I don't think I've ever sewn so fast in my life!  I made 35 custom pieces, all due and worn in one weekend.  That doesn't include in the various reticules and cravats I made, or any fans or feathers.

I'm pleasantly overwhelmed by the abundance!  It was a joy to meet with so many lovely people just as crazy as I am who want to join our Regency events.  How lovely it is to grow our community in such an immense way, and in such a short time no less!

We managed take group shots both evenings, which I'll post at a later date once they are available.

For now I'll leave you with this gem.  (Do please see Nanc Price's beautiful photos here: Saturday Photos .  I'm so pleased to have her as the photographer for this event!)


Do check out the hashtag #AustenYEG for more lovely photos!