2018 Planning

Okay, I know it's already a quarter into 2018 and maybe a little late to start planning out my sewing. As always, sewing plans revolve around Costume College. If you're not familiar with Costume College, check it out here. The theme this year is Dressing the Royals, which means pull out all the stops! It will be glitz and glam all weekend. You know me, any excuse to wear a tiara...

Last year, I planned on making a fully beaded Queen Maud gown. With my internship I knew it wasn't possible, so thought I could make it work for this year. Every time I started it, something went wrong. I tried things multiple ways, but it just wasn't happening. I finally realised this just isn't the year for it. I love this dress, and maybe one year I'll go for it, but not 2018. And I'm okay with that.

Queen Maud of Norway Gown, 1912, House of Worth. 

So, what should I make? The worst question. Pinterest to the rescue. As I just finished an Edwardian suit in January I have a lovely new set of early 1900s underpinnings. My aim was to find something to go with the accessories and underpinnings I already have. These two lovely ladies popped up:

Queen Maud of Norway Gown, 1906-7

An Evening Gown of Black chiffon, ca. 1900

I love both (how could you not?). I decided to use my beloved chartreuse silk satin for the project. I just happened to find the most divine embroidered tulle online, and matching ribbon flowers. So, frilly, fluffy option A it is.

It won't be the most historically accurate piece, which I'm okay with. The tulle is lovely and soft, but nylon. I'll bead some of the flowers as well to give a similar effect to the original. I just didn't have it in me to tambour and bead an entire gown of silk tulle. I bought all the flowers I need, yet might make a few if there's any leftover silk (the chartreuse is mauve on the back!).

I'm pleased to be making a Queen Maud gown. It's a lovely substitute for the beaded gown.  One day, dear friend. One day.

I'm itching to start now that I have all my materials. Alas, school. I have just over a month before I'm done. I'll be focusing on that for the next few weeks, and then can properly focus on my gala gown. If I get it done in time I can start on our Bath 2019 wardrobe, but that's another post for another time.

Cheers,
~M

Gala Gown 2017

As I planned out my sewing for Costume College this year I had to rethink all my plans. I had planned a huge project that involved a fully beaded 1912 gown. Between school and now my internship, it wasn't going to happen. Maybe next year.

I settled on this floofy number:

1828 Dress, Victoria and Albert Museum

I've never been interested in the 1820s to 30s look.  But something about this dress took me in.  The more I read about it and discovered it was likely made from 18th century fabric, the more I fell in love. Plus, it's a fairly simple design. With the right fabric it could be a fancy frock.  And those bias scallops! Yum!

Finding fabric was the tricky part. I wanted an 18th century-esque stripe that was ideally green and purple. Alas, no such fabric could be procured. I was lucky enough to hit up the LA garment district on reading week and found some green and gold stripe that suits perfectly. You'll have to wait and see the final dress ;)

I got my corded petticoat done just in time to leave for CW.  Literally.  Just in time.  Like 3 hours before I left my house. Ugh.  I already hate it and wish I could remake it, but whatever. I hope it does the job. 

I brought all my sewing supplies with me and am slowing moving through the process. At first I was concerned about hand sewing the entire thing because it was going to take forever.  And I remembered, I'm here to hand sew everything... so yeah, that works out well. *face palm* 

I've cut all the pieces and am carefully hoarding them in my room.  The only part I'm not doing by hand is the making the piping.  I visited a friend with a zipper foot this week so it's all ready to go! Now I just need to get sewing. The dress itself should be fairly straightforward. As you see all the front panels are at an angle and match stripes.  By hand is definitely the way to go! 

All the bias!

The last piece I need to figure out it is the sleeve supports. I'm using silk taffeta that will need a little help staying afloat. I'll be following this tutorial from Fresh Frippery as a simple way to add a little floof. I love the idea of using tulle so they stay light and fluffy.

I also need to make a hair piece.  I'm terrible when it comes to doing my own hair. I've got a good grasp on regency, so I'll use that knowledge to make this work.  I'm planning to do something like this: 

1828 Abendfrisur

I bought all the necessary pieces with me and will attempt to make something passable while I'm here. I may invest in a foam head as that will be easier to hold things in place.  Fingers crossed!

Hopefully it'll be done before I go! I'm looking forward to hand sewing a gown. I'm feeling more confident in my hand sewing skills so this is a perfect opportunity to show them off!

And thankfully it'll fit perfectly in the July challenge for the Historical Sew Monthly.  I'll complete at least one challenge this year. ;)

Cheers,

~M

Settling In with Gratitude

I'm starting to settle in to Colonial life. I'm two weeks in to my internship now. I've made a few friends. I've joined a dance group for the summer. I have a routine. I can successfully lace my stays in less than 5 minutes each morning.

But as with all happy endings they start with a bit of trouble. Week one consisted of me wandering in the heat and humidity several times, once I ended up with a bit of heat stroke. C'est la vie. It wouldn't be me if I didn't make a few poor decisions along the way.

Williamsburg has a company called Lyft, which is basically Uber or Tap car.  They have Uber too, but it always says there are no cars in my area and I have to pay more for a fancier car.  Seriously Uber, get it together. Now that I have more access to transportation, and am willing to ask for help if needed (no, seriously. It happened!), it's a little easier to get my bearings. I've only been super homesick once so far. I've been far too busy!

I've been working on lots of projects at work. So far I've worked on a pin cushion, work bag, quilted petticoat, gown and petticoat in a day, a cap, and fringe trim. My stitches are getting smaller and more consistent. I've gone from 8 stitches per inch to about 20 per inch without difficulty.

In a few weeks I'll be jetting off to Costume College. I barely had time to finish my corded petticoat before I left let alone my gala gown. A blog post with more on that coming soon! I'll be hand sewing my gown if for no other reason than I'm hand sewing everything else so might as well.

For now, I'll leave off with a huge thank you to my community. If it wasn't for you I wouldn't be here. Truly! I wouldn't be making amazing things and meeting wonderful people. This internship was almost entirely funded by you! I hope I can do your generosity proud.

Cheers,
~M

Adventure Awaits!

I've been a tad absent since the start of the year.  I just started my Master's degree in January, which was, well... I survived.  I'll just leave it at that.

As part of my degree I can take an internship (and get credit). When an opportunity popped up, on Facebook of all places, for an internship at Colonial Williamsburg I knew I had to apply. I think it's fairly competitive, and wasn't expecting to be accepted. The fact that I got an interview made me really proud of myself! But, I did get it.  I GOT IT!

Oh man, that was the easy part. Between figuring out how things would go through school and work, figuring out finances, not receiving any travel grants I applied for, and trying to figure out if a visa was needed... it's been quite the journey to get here. I was fairly convinced it wasn't going to happen. But here we are, a few days before I leave, and I've finally realized that I'm going to Virginia.  Like, on Monday...

Super excited to learn from the Journeywomen at Colonial Williamsburg, but I'm also delighted to spend the summer in Virginia. It holds a special place in my family history. When my Great Grandfather (John Smith, no joke!) first landed in North America he came to Virginia. He thought it was the most beautiful place he'd ever seen. When he returned to Wales and my Grandmother was born a few years later she was given the middle name Virginia. And I was named after her.  I've driven through the state before, but as a small child. Now I get to go and see what my Great Grandfather saw in this place. I get to live in the place that holds such a key piece to my family's history.  I'm delighted!

Even better is that I get to spend 8 weeks in the Margaret Hunter Millinery Shop. There's so many things I want to learn! I was to learn whipped gathers and how to make a giant floofy cap. I desperately need to understand how eighteenth century sleeves are set in because I cannot for the life of me figure that out! And I want to know how to bind stays in leather, how to make trims, etc. I'll totally be in knowledge sponge mode!

Watch this space for regular updates. I'll be blogging more frequently, but differently than before. It will be more about the adventure of it all rather than strictly documenting sewing projects like usual.

I'm still attending Costume College at the end of July. I was hoping to have everything done by the time I leave, but alas. I'm fairly certain my Gala gown will be entirely hand sewn as I just need to get other projects done before I go.  As long as I can conquer that blasted corded petticoat, I'm fine.  It'll be fine.

I have three more days of work, one day off to pack, and then I leave Monday!  Please take this time to sacrifice a chicken (or tofu, whatevs) in my honour to the travel gods.

If you're on Instagram, watch the hashtag #yegsewistdoesCW for hilarious and awkward travel photos. Silly faces abound.

See you in Virginia!
~M

1770s Robe a la Francaise

I'm just back from Costume College so I hardly know what to write!  I'll write a post about that soon.  You know, once my luggage arrives home...

My 1770s gown started as it so often does; it all started with a gorgeous striped silk I picked up for $11!  I've had it in my stash for over a year knowing it would become a Francaise one day.

I already had the stays so I just had to make panniers.  I followed The Dreamstress' pannier along tutorial.  I highly recommend it!  The only adjustment I made was that I decided not to put a bottom in my panniers.  Stupid, stupid idea.  Ignore me and follow the directions!

It started as a 1760s gown with this delightful number from the MET as inspiration:

MET, 1750-1775 European gown, silk

I used Katherine Caron-Greig's tutorial on making a Francaise gown.  I found it quite easy to follow.  Check out the nine part series here: http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.ca/2011/03/draping-sort-of-sacque-part-one.html

I started with the back in order to make sure I had enough fabric.  Matching the stripes was the only tricky part.  

Once I had the pleats in I could add the side panels and start pleating in the skirts.  Once I knew how much fabric I needed for the back I could cut the petticoat.  Then, came the trim...

This was quite the trial and error! I did my best to replicate the trim in my inspiration photo, but honestly I was just winging it!  I cheated and machine sewed the trim on the petticoat.  Not ideal, but I was running short on time.  The straight line was a little finicky, but doable.  The wavy part was completely crazy!  I made a guide and just started pinning.

But it worked:

Knowing the amount of trim I had to do on the gown I was feeling a little apprehensive.  With a little advice from various sources I just dove right in the to the rest.  I finished the rest of the gown.  I'm especially proud of the back robings :)

Now, this is where things got tricky.  I found a delightful little ship for my hair.  A SHIP.  FOR MY HAIR!  I wasn't willing to sacrifice the ship so I had to adjust the gown.  Ships in hair were worn specifically to celebrate a naval battle fought and won against the British by the French in 1778.  I had planned to create a stomacher for my gown, but that was WAY too early and wouldn't hit that middle ground I was aiming for.  Then I came across a compere front gown.  

It's a perfect blend of styles.  It's a sewn in stomacher with functioning buttons.  How clever!  It also makes it easier to get in and out of.

I draped it like a normal stomacher and then just marked the centre, added my seam allowance, and away I go!  

After sewing on MILES and MILES (I just got back from the US!) of trim, here's the final dress:

I'm so proud of it!  

The Challenge: #8 Pattern

Material: Silk stripe and trim, cotton lining

Pattern: Draped based on Katherine Caron-Grieg's Sacque tutorial

Year: 1770s

Notions: silk and cotton thread, covered buttons, ribbon for bows

Accuracy:  I'm going to give myself about an 80% on this one. Materials and pattern are spot on.  I did cheat and use modern techniques for the sleeves, and a button cover kit, but it's almost entirely hand sewn.

Hours:  Oh boy.  I have no idea.  If it weren't for very dear friends helping me sew this it would have been impossible!

First worn: July 30th, Costume College Gala

Total Cost: $25.  No, that's not a typo :)

Special shout out to Jenny La Fleur for the AMAZING hairstyle.  The ship and flowers were absolutely perfect!  And jewellry by Dames a la Mode!

Special, special shout out to some very lovely ladies for helping me pleat all this trim and hand sew it on!  Without their love and support this gown would be me in a puddle of silk, crying.  Ladies, you are truly amazing friends!

~M

1912 Post-Edwardian Tea Gown

Have I mentioned I love my job?  Like really love my job?  To commemorate the suffragette movement in Alberta the Legislature organized a costumed-rally  and invited Fort Edmonton staff to join.  What fun!  Of course I volunteered.  While I didn't actually get to attend because I'm a klutz and injured my foot, I did make this little beauty.

I based my outfit on this fashion plate:

Ladies Home Journal, January 1912

Soutache: check.  Pattern I already have: check.  Excuse to re-design my boater: check.  Use only stash materials: check.

I used a lovely aqua-coloured linen with white soutache for the gown.  The blouse is made from ikea curtains originally destined for a regency gown, but alas.


The pattern sews together beautifully.  I used the same pattern for Mrs Banks so I was able to whip it together quickly.  I did interface the facings as soutache appreciates a little something to hold on to.  The bodice and skirt hem don't have facings in the pattern so I quickly drafted them.  The other change I made to the pattern, which was more time consuming than it needed to be was that I removed the pleat from the skirt.  It made me look a tad more poochy than I really needed it to...

Butterick 6093, 1912

I wanted to keep the pretty tulip hem without the pleat.  I'm sure the lack of tea contributed to my troubles.  I swear it took longer to redraft that one piece than it did to sew the damn thing together!

Once the pattern was in order it assembled super quickly.  I made my soutache template as usual, marking the intersections with my iron-away marker.  And then, I soutached.  And soutached.  And soutached.  

Just keep stitching...

I'm quite pleased with the result!  It hangs beautifully and gives a lovely post-Edwardian silhouette.  I'm reserving the full photo for post-CoCo so patience, dear friends!  But, here's a sneak peek:

Cheers,
~M

Catching Up & Francaise Progress

The spring got away from me a little.  And by a little I mean HOLY HELL I WAS BUSY!  I adore my new job, but it was crazy costuming so many people on such short notice.  Such is the way of the world!  I'm so thankful for the opportunity.  That said, I've had little time to focus on NutmegSews.

At the end of May, Regency Encounters held a Regency Fashion Fair to outfit all our newcomers with Regency regalia.  How exciting!  I jumped at the chance to participate.  I had a comprehensive plan to make all kinds of ready-made items in all sizes and styles.  Because of all the free time I have.  *eye roll*  I did get a few items ready to sell, plus I had a ton of patterns and fans to offer.

It was a huge success!  For my first craft sale I'm exceedingly pleased with the result.  I worked hard at making sure my booth was on brand and welcoming to guests.  B even came with to be the money-taker, simple-question-answerer, bag-boy, etc.  I spent most of the time discussing custom orders with clients and he sold the ready-made items.  I'm glad I didn't finish all the dresses I planned to as most people want something made just for them.  I finished a few sample dresses in my size so we could discuss styles and desires on the spot.

It was so fun to meet all the new people to our little Regency Community!  I'm delighted they've found us.  With all the events coming up this summer and fall, I'm now booked until November.  YAY!

That's in addition to Costume College..

Right.  Costume College.  It kind of snuck up on me.  Best laid plans and all that.

My Robe a la Francaise is coming along.  I FINALLY dug it out of it's laundry basket this week.  Yes, I use laundry baskets for fabric.  Turns out I was a bit farther than I remembered.  I've draped the back panels and tacked them together to trim to size.  Now I need to remove the tacking, cut the other side, and sew together properly.  The petticoat is hemmed and now on Judy pleated and ready to be sewn into the ties.  Now I need to drape the front and the sleeves.

I've started to think about how I'm going to decorate the dress.  I really love the skirt on this guy:

From the MET collection, 1750-75:
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81655?rpp=30&pg=24&rndkey=20141205&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.%2B1600-1800&pos=713&imgNo=0&tabName=related-objects

For the sleeves and robings I'll go with something like this:

Portrait of a Lady by French School, ca 1772-85 France, the Bowes Museum

I did find one in almost an identical print that has self-decoration, but I have a fondness for silk organza so I'll just do pleated rows of that.  I still have no idea what I'm doing for the stomacher.  That's future Meg's problem.  Likely lots of bows, because BOWS!

And that's it for now, friends.  I'm snowed under with commissions.  Back to sewing!

Cheers,
~M