Regency Hair

With another ball coming soon I thought it would be a good idea to put together a few reference materials. Through doing various Regency events I've got my hair to a science, but that's not for everyone. I try to recreate the hairstyles as best as I can; however, I know not everyone is THAT interested in historical accuracy.

For Edmonton's purposes, "Regency" means early 1800s to 1820s, so you'll notice I've got a pretty wide range here :)

Whatever your level of interest in historical accuracy, here are some great resources that I've found helpful during my Regency events. You can do these yourself! For those that know me, a bun is the fanciest I can muster. I've found knowing my hair texture and it's possibilities helps. Whether you attempt these on your own or get someone else to have a go, I hope this helps!

First, your hair should be up. A simple bun will get you pretty far!

1797 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

One of the things I love about this image is that you get a great side view! It's a simple bun with a few ribbons tied around the head and a few curly bangs. Simple, right?

You'll see many variations in Regency portraiture:

Baronesse Mathieu de Favier, Marquise de Jaucourt by François-Pascal-Simon Gérard, called Baron Gérard (auctioned by Christie's). Napoléonic Baroness de Favier wears a dress with a criss-cross bodice filled in with a modesty piece

Okay, I know this is a group of modern interpretations, but they are recognizable references for most :)

Firmin Massot (Genève, 1766 – Genève, 1849) Portrait de Madame Jean-Gabriel Eynard, née Anne Charlotte Adélaïde Lullin de Châteauvieux (1793-1868), dite Anna Lullin, vers 1810 Huile sur toile Copyright: MAH, photo: B. Jacot-Descombes Inv. 1996-1

Jean-Pierre de Saint-Ours Portrait of a Young Woman Early 19th century

You'll notice that when the front is parted, it is parted in the centre of the head. If you have bangs, curl 'em. If you don't, you could add a few faux curl pieces to the front. This tutorial from Kosha the Cat is super helpful if you want to go that route. Sally Beauty has lots of varieties of hair lengths, but I'd advise shorter ones where possible.  Too long and they get crazy. Also, a tip: DON'T try and curl your hair pieces the day of the event! Give yourself time. Depending on the type of hair you get it could need quite a bit of heat or to be soaked in boiling water.

If you don't have or want bangs...

https://locksofelegance.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/braided-regency-hairstyle/

BRAIDS! I've often seen a mix of curls and braids, or just plain braids. I'm sure that's a response to the fact that some peoples' hair just doesn't curl! Note that most braids are NOT French braids. They are simple strands braided. Especially helpful if you have crazy long or thick hair (like me) and a bun just can't hold it all. I like to braid a few side pieces and wrap them around my bun, as above.

Here's another tutorial, though this lady has VERY long hair: https://youtu.be/bQXu9enBrK0

OR, if you're feeling uber fancy:  https://youtu.be/jGpJOSem5gE

You'll see a lot of Grecian influence in Regency styles. See the top right one? VERY short hair in the 'Titus' style. If you've got something like a pixie cut, you're set! It wasn't overly common, but it does appear from time to time in original images.

Directoire 1795-1799

If your hair is too short to go up, but you also can't work a Titus cut, a turban is a great option! (Also helpful is you can't be bothered to do your hair!). I have a whole Pinterest board of them here.

Evening dresses, 1810 :: Fashion Plate Collection, 19th Century

Fashions of London and Paris, Evening Dresses, March 1811.

You can make a turban in a couple different ways. The easiest way is to tie a scarf around your head. See this tutorial here for directions. Use the tail of the scarf to your advantage!

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/eb/9c/ae/eb9cae7935dbdddad9ef5d629f39b350.jpg

If you want something more like a hat that you put on and it's done, this is your best bet from Festive Attyre. You can make this one either a bit floppy or quite structured depending on your style.

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2014/06/regency-turban-cap-tutorial.html

Here's another one from The Modern Mantua-Maker. Add ribbons and gathers to your heart's content!

https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/2013/12/10/regency-ball-ensemble-post-3-the-turban/

I hope this helps you prep for the ball! All my images and a few extra can be found on my Pinterest page here.

If this tutorial is helpful do let me know in the comments. I'd love to do more on accessories and silhouette.

Pride and Prejudice Ball 2016

O.  M.  G.

I've scarcely had time to sleep let alone to write!  What an adventure the past few months have been.  After the May Regency Costume Fair I met so many lovely new clients!  Gowns and tailcoats were ordered.  Fabric purchased.  Mock ups were made and fitted.

And then at the second Costume Fair in September I had more inquiries about custom gowns!  With the ball fast approaching I hunkered down and put the pedal to the metal, so to speak.  I don't think I've ever sewn so fast in my life!  I made 35 custom pieces, all due and worn in one weekend.  That doesn't include in the various reticules and cravats I made, or any fans or feathers.

I'm pleasantly overwhelmed by the abundance!  It was a joy to meet with so many lovely people just as crazy as I am who want to join our Regency events.  How lovely it is to grow our community in such an immense way, and in such a short time no less!

We managed take group shots both evenings, which I'll post at a later date once they are available.

For now I'll leave you with this gem.  (Do please see Nanc Price's beautiful photos here: Saturday Photos .  I'm so pleased to have her as the photographer for this event!)

Do check out the hashtag #AustenYEG for more lovely photos!

1806 Soutache Gown

I'm pleased to say that I finished my elaborate soutache gown in time for the ball!

To recap:  I've been dreaming of this lovely portrait for ages.  It's elaborate and subtle at the same time.  The folds of the sleeves have me captivated.

1806, Hortense de Beauharnais with her son Napoleon Charles by Fraincois-Pascal-Simon Gerard

I'm not a particular fan of white dresses so I opted to use some lavender satin from my stash instead. I substituted the gold trim for a white soutache (have I mentioned I LOVE soutache...?).

I started with Laughing Moon #126 as my base dress.  It fits me perfectly so I didn't need to do another fitting.  Or so I thought...

Figuring out the exact pattern of the skirt panels took longer than I'd like to admit.  It's four separate pieces sewn in a zigzag to make the criss-cross pattern.  Since I used my machine to sew it it didn't take long at all.  I started the project early thinking I would have to hand sew it, but once I figured out how to do it by machine it zipped along quite well!

Marking out the intersections with dots.

The sleeves were a bit of a puzzle.  Since I can't see the back I just sort of guessed how they were pleated.  I have to say, I truly love the affect of pleated sleeves.  I interlined them with cotton so give them a bit of body and did three panels of soutache.  It's the same pattern as the skirt, but in a smaller scale.  Again, figuring that out took longer than I'd like to admit!  I also had to angle the outside lines of trim so they'd look straight once pleated.  Man, am I glad I thought of that before sewing!

Skinnier version of the skirt detail.

The delicate sheer trim along the neckline didn't entirely turn out the way I'd like, but it'll do.  Mine didn't stick up the way I'd hoped :\

The bodice front was easy; I sewed a 3/8" piece of folded silk organza into the top edge of the bodice.  Easy peasy.  This had to be done before the trim along the top as it was too close to the seam allowance to do afterwards.

I had quite the time fitting the bodice!  I've never made the fitted version before so it was a bit of trial and error to get it to sit properly around my stays.  I have a large cup size and small band size so I often need an arm scythe dart.  I don't believe it's period appropriate, but that's what I had to do here.  See the GIANT side dart?

The neckline was WAY too high so I lowered it about an inch.  Felt like I was wearing a Regency turtle neck!

The rest of the neckline trim is just a tube of silk organza held in place by loops of ribbon.  Again, I'd like it to have a little height, but it was done the night before the ball and I was done with this dress-puzzle.

Making things up as I go!

Have you ever made a tassel?  They are quite therapeutic.  I made sure mine hung down a little to avoid a pasty look.

What the item is: 1806 Regency Gown

The Challenge: #2 Pleats and Tucks

Fabric/Materials: Poly satin, cotton/rayon soutache, cotton interlining, silk organiza

Pattern: Laughing Moon #126

Year: 1806

Notions: So. Much. Soutache. 24 yards, in fact!

How historically accurate is it? I'd say 50%-ish.  Mostly synthetic materials and I machine stitched it, but the overall look is quite close to the portrait.

Hours to complete: About 20-25.

First worn: February 27th, 2016

Total cost: $30.  I only had to buy the soutache and some thread.

Up Next:
Paniers!

P.S.  Look what I found!  It's a crochet turtle measuring tape.  Much delight was had by all at work the day I brought this friend to say hello.  He's even featured in a movie!

The To Do List

Since I'm home sick with a cold I think today is an excellent day to take stock.  Between commissions and personal projects I have some many things to do!

I have four regency gowns on the go, with a fifth coming this weekend.  What fun!  I love building dresses for each client to suit their personality and use.

I'm also making some rompers and baby things for a local photographer.  Totally new market, but so nice to try something different!

And did I mention I'm coordinating and designing a friend's wedding?  Yeah, super fun!  A Frozen theme is the best way to start the holiday season.

For me, well...

- Net overlay for my gold silk ball gown.  Beaded, of course, because I can't make my life easy.
- Wool winter coat.
- Miss Fisher trousers
- 1780s Robe a l'Anglaise

That's doable, right?  Right...?

I'm also involved with the newly formed Regency Sewing Guild.  Beginning on October 16th you can join us for Regency stay-making classes complete with tea and scones.  Details here.  The fee includes all the materials and pattern so you just show up, sew, and eat scones.  Did I mention scones...?