1770s Robe a la Francaise

I'm just back from Costume College so I hardly know what to write!  I'll write a post about that soon.  You know, once my luggage arrives home...

My 1770s gown started as it so often does; it all started with a gorgeous striped silk I picked up for $11!  I've had it in my stash for over a year knowing it would become a Francaise one day.

I already had the stays so I just had to make panniers.  I followed The Dreamstress' pannier along tutorial.  I highly recommend it!  The only adjustment I made was that I decided not to put a bottom in my panniers.  Stupid, stupid idea.  Ignore me and follow the directions!

It started as a 1760s gown with this delightful number from the MET as inspiration:

MET, 1750-1775 European gown, silk

I used Katherine Caron-Greig's tutorial on making a Francaise gown.  I found it quite easy to follow.  Check out the nine part series here: http://koshka-the-cat.blogspot.ca/2011/03/draping-sort-of-sacque-part-one.html

I started with the back in order to make sure I had enough fabric.  Matching the stripes was the only tricky part.  

Once I had the pleats in I could add the side panels and start pleating in the skirts.  Once I knew how much fabric I needed for the back I could cut the petticoat.  Then, came the trim...

This was quite the trial and error! I did my best to replicate the trim in my inspiration photo, but honestly I was just winging it!  I cheated and machine sewed the trim on the petticoat.  Not ideal, but I was running short on time.  The straight line was a little finicky, but doable.  The wavy part was completely crazy!  I made a guide and just started pinning.

But it worked:

Knowing the amount of trim I had to do on the gown I was feeling a little apprehensive.  With a little advice from various sources I just dove right in the to the rest.  I finished the rest of the gown.  I'm especially proud of the back robings :)

Now, this is where things got tricky.  I found a delightful little ship for my hair.  A SHIP.  FOR MY HAIR!  I wasn't willing to sacrifice the ship so I had to adjust the gown.  Ships in hair were worn specifically to celebrate a naval battle fought and won against the British by the French in 1778.  I had planned to create a stomacher for my gown, but that was WAY too early and wouldn't hit that middle ground I was aiming for.  Then I came across a compere front gown.  

It's a perfect blend of styles.  It's a sewn in stomacher with functioning buttons.  How clever!  It also makes it easier to get in and out of.

I draped it like a normal stomacher and then just marked the centre, added my seam allowance, and away I go!  

After sewing on MILES and MILES (I just got back from the US!) of trim, here's the final dress:

I'm so proud of it!  

The Challenge: #8 Pattern

Material: Silk stripe and trim, cotton lining

Pattern: Draped based on Katherine Caron-Grieg's Sacque tutorial

Year: 1770s

Notions: silk and cotton thread, covered buttons, ribbon for bows

Accuracy:  I'm going to give myself about an 80% on this one. Materials and pattern are spot on.  I did cheat and use modern techniques for the sleeves, and a button cover kit, but it's almost entirely hand sewn.

Hours:  Oh boy.  I have no idea.  If it weren't for very dear friends helping me sew this it would have been impossible!

First worn: July 30th, Costume College Gala

Total Cost: $25.  No, that's not a typo :)

Special shout out to Jenny La Fleur for the AMAZING hairstyle.  The ship and flowers were absolutely perfect!  And jewellry by Dames a la Mode!

Special, special shout out to some very lovely ladies for helping me pleat all this trim and hand sew it on!  Without their love and support this gown would be me in a puddle of silk, crying.  Ladies, you are truly amazing friends!

~M

Catching Up & Francaise Progress

The spring got away from me a little.  And by a little I mean HOLY HELL I WAS BUSY!  I adore my new job, but it was crazy costuming so many people on such short notice.  Such is the way of the world!  I'm so thankful for the opportunity.  That said, I've had little time to focus on NutmegSews.

At the end of May, Regency Encounters held a Regency Fashion Fair to outfit all our newcomers with Regency regalia.  How exciting!  I jumped at the chance to participate.  I had a comprehensive plan to make all kinds of ready-made items in all sizes and styles.  Because of all the free time I have.  *eye roll*  I did get a few items ready to sell, plus I had a ton of patterns and fans to offer.

It was a huge success!  For my first craft sale I'm exceedingly pleased with the result.  I worked hard at making sure my booth was on brand and welcoming to guests.  B even came with to be the money-taker, simple-question-answerer, bag-boy, etc.  I spent most of the time discussing custom orders with clients and he sold the ready-made items.  I'm glad I didn't finish all the dresses I planned to as most people want something made just for them.  I finished a few sample dresses in my size so we could discuss styles and desires on the spot.

It was so fun to meet all the new people to our little Regency Community!  I'm delighted they've found us.  With all the events coming up this summer and fall, I'm now booked until November.  YAY!

That's in addition to Costume College..

Right.  Costume College.  It kind of snuck up on me.  Best laid plans and all that.

My Robe a la Francaise is coming along.  I FINALLY dug it out of it's laundry basket this week.  Yes, I use laundry baskets for fabric.  Turns out I was a bit farther than I remembered.  I've draped the back panels and tacked them together to trim to size.  Now I need to remove the tacking, cut the other side, and sew together properly.  The petticoat is hemmed and now on Judy pleated and ready to be sewn into the ties.  Now I need to drape the front and the sleeves.

I've started to think about how I'm going to decorate the dress.  I really love the skirt on this guy:

From the MET collection, 1750-75:
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81655?rpp=30&pg=24&rndkey=20141205&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.%2B1600-1800&pos=713&imgNo=0&tabName=related-objects

For the sleeves and robings I'll go with something like this:

Portrait of a Lady by French School, ca 1772-85 France, the Bowes Museum

I did find one in almost an identical print that has self-decoration, but I have a fondness for silk organza so I'll just do pleated rows of that.  I still have no idea what I'm doing for the stomacher.  That's future Meg's problem.  Likely lots of bows, because BOWS!

And that's it for now, friends.  I'm snowed under with commissions.  Back to sewing!

Cheers,
~M