Regency Hair

With another ball coming soon I thought it would be a good idea to put together a few reference materials. Through doing various Regency events I've got my hair to a science, but that's not for everyone. I try to recreate the hairstyles as best as I can; however, I know not everyone is THAT interested in historical accuracy.

For Edmonton's purposes, "Regency" means early 1800s to 1820s, so you'll notice I've got a pretty wide range here :)

Whatever your level of interest in historical accuracy, here are some great resources that I've found helpful during my Regency events. You can do these yourself! For those that know me, a bun is the fanciest I can muster. I've found knowing my hair texture and it's possibilities helps. Whether you attempt these on your own or get someone else to have a go, I hope this helps!

First, your hair should be up. A simple bun will get you pretty far!

1797 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

One of the things I love about this image is that you get a great side view! It's a simple bun with a few ribbons tied around the head and a few curly bangs. Simple, right?

You'll see many variations in Regency portraiture:

Baronesse Mathieu de Favier, Marquise de Jaucourt by François-Pascal-Simon Gérard, called Baron Gérard (auctioned by Christie's). Napoléonic Baroness de Favier wears a dress with a criss-cross bodice filled in with a modesty piece

Okay, I know this is a group of modern interpretations, but they are recognizable references for most :)

Firmin Massot (Genève, 1766 – Genève, 1849) Portrait de Madame Jean-Gabriel Eynard, née Anne Charlotte Adélaïde Lullin de Châteauvieux (1793-1868), dite Anna Lullin, vers 1810 Huile sur toile Copyright: MAH, photo: B. Jacot-Descombes Inv. 1996-1

Jean-Pierre de Saint-Ours Portrait of a Young Woman Early 19th century

You'll notice that when the front is parted, it is parted in the centre of the head. If you have bangs, curl 'em. If you don't, you could add a few faux curl pieces to the front. This tutorial from Kosha the Cat is super helpful if you want to go that route. Sally Beauty has lots of varieties of hair lengths, but I'd advise shorter ones where possible.  Too long and they get crazy. Also, a tip: DON'T try and curl your hair pieces the day of the event! Give yourself time. Depending on the type of hair you get it could need quite a bit of heat or to be soaked in boiling water.

If you don't have or want bangs...

https://locksofelegance.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/braided-regency-hairstyle/

BRAIDS! I've often seen a mix of curls and braids, or just plain braids. I'm sure that's a response to the fact that some peoples' hair just doesn't curl! Note that most braids are NOT French braids. They are simple strands braided. Especially helpful if you have crazy long or thick hair (like me) and a bun just can't hold it all. I like to braid a few side pieces and wrap them around my bun, as above.

Here's another tutorial, though this lady has VERY long hair: https://youtu.be/bQXu9enBrK0

OR, if you're feeling uber fancy:  https://youtu.be/jGpJOSem5gE

You'll see a lot of Grecian influence in Regency styles. See the top right one? VERY short hair in the 'Titus' style. If you've got something like a pixie cut, you're set! It wasn't overly common, but it does appear from time to time in original images.

Directoire 1795-1799

If your hair is too short to go up, but you also can't work a Titus cut, a turban is a great option! (Also helpful is you can't be bothered to do your hair!). I have a whole Pinterest board of them here.

Evening dresses, 1810 :: Fashion Plate Collection, 19th Century

Fashions of London and Paris, Evening Dresses, March 1811.

You can make a turban in a couple different ways. The easiest way is to tie a scarf around your head. See this tutorial here for directions. Use the tail of the scarf to your advantage!

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/eb/9c/ae/eb9cae7935dbdddad9ef5d629f39b350.jpg

If you want something more like a hat that you put on and it's done, this is your best bet from Festive Attyre. You can make this one either a bit floppy or quite structured depending on your style.

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2014/06/regency-turban-cap-tutorial.html

Here's another one from The Modern Mantua-Maker. Add ribbons and gathers to your heart's content!

https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/2013/12/10/regency-ball-ensemble-post-3-the-turban/

I hope this helps you prep for the ball! All my images and a few extra can be found on my Pinterest page here.

If this tutorial is helpful do let me know in the comments. I'd love to do more on accessories and silhouette.

Getting Back on Track

My sewing has stalled of late.  I'm working on a gaggle of projects for a Regency ball in May, but stopped to make a lovely Spring dress for myself for a fundraiser I was volunteering for.  It's a beautiful SpoonFlower fabric I bought last year.  It's a buttery yellow with a pink and turquoise flower border.  What could be better for a springtime-themed event?

Of course I was still sewing the day of the event.  Of course.  I just finished the zipper and tried it when I realized that I've somehow changed shape since I padded out my mannequin in January.  The dress was 3" too big!  All that work for naught.

Blast and damn!

I won't lie, this set me back a few weeks.  I was planning to make a new set of Regency stays since I've had so many issues with my February set plus make a new ball gown for May, but it's a tad tricky when you don't have an appropriately sized mannequin.  (Note: I drape as many patterns as I can because I don't particularly like drafting.  Draping cuts out the first round of fitting which saves time when I'm making things for me.)

Last weekend I decided to tackle my stays.  I was debating whether I should stick with the pattern I have or buy a new and start from scratch.  When I get in these indecisive moods it can take quite a bit of time to sort myself out.  I usually spend my time 'researching' on Pinterest and convincing myself of several different things at once affectionately known as procrasti-pinteresting (not a word, just a Meg-ism; note variations as procrasti-sewing, procrasti-cleaning, and procrasti-shopping).  I was also trying to find buttons for B's 1932 housecoat, his frockcoat and vest, and figure out if the silk I bought for my gown was even appropriate or it pogey bait.  For a description on pogey bait, see the Dreamstress' posts here.

Anyway, I decided to stick with my current stays.  I'm trying to limit the amount of UFOs and miscellania I keep around.  Truns out, I only needed to add a busk pocket, tie the ties higher, and take in one hip gusset.  Victory!  I will spare you the photos of my Regency 'shelf' until I have a proper chemise.

Since I'm starting from scratch for B's outfit I've decided to put his sewing first.  As much as I wanted to sew his shirt entirely by hand I just don't have time.  Yesterday I finished the shirt.

Historical Sew Monthly Info

The Challenge: #4 War & Peace. Though I'm also counting this a #1 Foundations since this is the first time I've strayed into men's clothing and done these type of hand stitches.

Fabric: Hankerchief linen

Pattern: Kannik's Korner Man's shirt, 1790-1830

Year: 1790-1830, will be worn for a Regency ball

Notions: Cotton thread, buttons (eventually)

How historically accurate is it? I'd say 70%. Accurate fabric and pattern, but mostly machine sewn. Edges are finished by hand so you can't see the machine stitches.

Hours to complete: 7

First worn: Will be worn May 16 to a ball. Fingers crossed there's a frock coat to go with this or madness will ensue!

Total cost: $32

The vest is cut and ready to be sewn.  Maybe done by tomorrow...?  Then frock coat mock-up.  And I suppose I should make him breeches...

~M