2018 Planning

Okay, I know it's already a quarter into 2018 and maybe a little late to start planning out my sewing. As always, sewing plans revolve around Costume College. If you're not familiar with Costume College, check it out here. The theme this year is Dressing the Royals, which means pull out all the stops! It will be glitz and glam all weekend. You know me, any excuse to wear a tiara...

Last year, I planned on making a fully beaded Queen Maud gown. With my internship I knew it wasn't possible, so thought I could make it work for this year. Every time I started it, something went wrong. I tried things multiple ways, but it just wasn't happening. I finally realised this just isn't the year for it. I love this dress, and maybe one year I'll go for it, but not 2018. And I'm okay with that.

Queen Maud of Norway Gown, 1912, House of Worth. 

So, what should I make? The worst question. Pinterest to the rescue. As I just finished an Edwardian suit in January I have a lovely new set of early 1900s underpinnings. My aim was to find something to go with the accessories and underpinnings I already have. These two lovely ladies popped up:

Queen Maud of Norway Gown, 1906-7

An Evening Gown of Black chiffon, ca. 1900

I love both (how could you not?). I decided to use my beloved chartreuse silk satin for the project. I just happened to find the most divine embroidered tulle online, and matching ribbon flowers. So, frilly, fluffy option A it is.

It won't be the most historically accurate piece, which I'm okay with. The tulle is lovely and soft, but nylon. I'll bead some of the flowers as well to give a similar effect to the original. I just didn't have it in me to tambour and bead an entire gown of silk tulle. I bought all the flowers I need, yet might make a few if there's any leftover silk (the chartreuse is mauve on the back!).

I'm pleased to be making a Queen Maud gown. It's a lovely substitute for the beaded gown.  One day, dear friend. One day.

I'm itching to start now that I have all my materials. Alas, school. I have just over a month before I'm done. I'll be focusing on that for the next few weeks, and then can properly focus on my gala gown. If I get it done in time I can start on our Bath 2019 wardrobe, but that's another post for another time.

Cheers,
~M

Regency Hair

With another ball coming soon I thought it would be a good idea to put together a few reference materials. Through doing various Regency events I've got my hair to a science, but that's not for everyone. I try to recreate the hairstyles as best as I can; however, I know not everyone is THAT interested in historical accuracy.

For Edmonton's purposes, "Regency" means early 1800s to 1820s, so you'll notice I've got a pretty wide range here :)

Whatever your level of interest in historical accuracy, here are some great resources that I've found helpful during my Regency events. You can do these yourself! For those that know me, a bun is the fanciest I can muster. I've found knowing my hair texture and it's possibilities helps. Whether you attempt these on your own or get someone else to have a go, I hope this helps!

First, your hair should be up. A simple bun will get you pretty far!

1797 Journal des Luxus und der Moden

One of the things I love about this image is that you get a great side view! It's a simple bun with a few ribbons tied around the head and a few curly bangs. Simple, right?

You'll see many variations in Regency portraiture:

Baronesse Mathieu de Favier, Marquise de Jaucourt by François-Pascal-Simon Gérard, called Baron Gérard (auctioned by Christie's). Napoléonic Baroness de Favier wears a dress with a criss-cross bodice filled in with a modesty piece

Okay, I know this is a group of modern interpretations, but they are recognizable references for most :)

Firmin Massot (Genève, 1766 – Genève, 1849) Portrait de Madame Jean-Gabriel Eynard, née Anne Charlotte Adélaïde Lullin de Châteauvieux (1793-1868), dite Anna Lullin, vers 1810 Huile sur toile Copyright: MAH, photo: B. Jacot-Descombes Inv. 1996-1

Jean-Pierre de Saint-Ours Portrait of a Young Woman Early 19th century

You'll notice that when the front is parted, it is parted in the centre of the head. If you have bangs, curl 'em. If you don't, you could add a few faux curl pieces to the front. This tutorial from Kosha the Cat is super helpful if you want to go that route. Sally Beauty has lots of varieties of hair lengths, but I'd advise shorter ones where possible.  Too long and they get crazy. Also, a tip: DON'T try and curl your hair pieces the day of the event! Give yourself time. Depending on the type of hair you get it could need quite a bit of heat or to be soaked in boiling water.

If you don't have or want bangs...

https://locksofelegance.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/braided-regency-hairstyle/

BRAIDS! I've often seen a mix of curls and braids, or just plain braids. I'm sure that's a response to the fact that some peoples' hair just doesn't curl! Note that most braids are NOT French braids. They are simple strands braided. Especially helpful if you have crazy long or thick hair (like me) and a bun just can't hold it all. I like to braid a few side pieces and wrap them around my bun, as above.

Here's another tutorial, though this lady has VERY long hair: https://youtu.be/bQXu9enBrK0

OR, if you're feeling uber fancy:  https://youtu.be/jGpJOSem5gE

You'll see a lot of Grecian influence in Regency styles. See the top right one? VERY short hair in the 'Titus' style. If you've got something like a pixie cut, you're set! It wasn't overly common, but it does appear from time to time in original images.

Directoire 1795-1799

If your hair is too short to go up, but you also can't work a Titus cut, a turban is a great option! (Also helpful is you can't be bothered to do your hair!). I have a whole Pinterest board of them here.

Evening dresses, 1810 :: Fashion Plate Collection, 19th Century

Fashions of London and Paris, Evening Dresses, March 1811.

You can make a turban in a couple different ways. The easiest way is to tie a scarf around your head. See this tutorial here for directions. Use the tail of the scarf to your advantage!

https://i.pinimg.com/564x/eb/9c/ae/eb9cae7935dbdddad9ef5d629f39b350.jpg

If you want something more like a hat that you put on and it's done, this is your best bet from Festive Attyre. You can make this one either a bit floppy or quite structured depending on your style.

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2014/06/regency-turban-cap-tutorial.html

Here's another one from The Modern Mantua-Maker. Add ribbons and gathers to your heart's content!

https://themodernmantuamaker.wordpress.com/2013/12/10/regency-ball-ensemble-post-3-the-turban/

I hope this helps you prep for the ball! All my images and a few extra can be found on my Pinterest page here.

If this tutorial is helpful do let me know in the comments. I'd love to do more on accessories and silhouette.

1805 Summer Bonnet

Oh my heavens!  I completely forgot to tell you all about my summer bonnet.  Let me do so now.

After last summer's Promenade I wanted a light, airy bonnet for the inconsistent summer here in Alberta.  June could snow, rain, or scorch us, or quite possibly all three!  July is usually quite warm.  August could be the same as June, though typically in the reverse order.  (I promise I don't jest!  It snowed the day after our end of August wedding)

I discovered this lovely bonnet by FestiveAttyre:

http://www.festiveattyre.com/2010/07/building-straw-braid-bonnet.html?m=1

The unlined straw is exactly what I'd been looking for!  While in LA I discovered California Millinery, which has an entire section of straw braids of every shape and colour.  I came home with three different kinds, one being a navy blue that would suit my outfit nicely.

Festive Attyre's blog was the only useful source I could find regarding where to start.  I tried a few Facebook groups, but they all suggested a buckram base, which I was hoping to avoid.  As usual, I just decided to give it a go and hope for the best.

I made my frame out of bristol board, did a quick check for fit and shape, and then started pinning my straw.  As I only had a short length I decided to start with the brim and work backwards.  I was hoping for a longer bonnet, but buying materials in a foreign place with a long line behind you makes it nearly impossible to think straight.

I quickly spritzed my straw with water before starting to pin it to the base.  It did nothing to help and I was so frustrated I nearly gave up on the whole thing.  I remembered reading something somewhere about soaking straw to get it to behave, but only for a short time.  I soaked my straw for 25 seconds in tepid water until the dye started to leak out and I panicked and pulled it out.  I let it sit in a strainer for a few minutes before starting.

You'll notice I wrapped my base in plastic wrap so it didn't get too wet.

From there I just started pinning.  And pinning.  And pinning.

The dye didn't fade at all to the naked eye, but my hands were purple-ish blue for a week!

I decided to pin the entire thing before sewing as I thought for sure I'd make a mess of it.  By the time I finished pinning the crown the brim was dry enough to start sewing.  I used a sturdy thread and just started stitching, removing the pins and I went.

 

I wanted the brim flipped under at the back so I basically just made a bucket hat.  It was a rather boring shape until I flipped the back, close pinned it in place, and let it dry again before stitching it down.

While waiting for it to dry we went to Chintz and Co.  It's one of our favourite stores, though we mostly spend time at the back in the fabric section.  It's the only place in Edmonton you can get really nice quality silks and velvets.  They are mostly a home decor store and so have excellent quality petersham and faux flowers.  I was able to grab a few items to match my bonnet, and then finish that same evening.

Ta da!

My very, very late HSM entry:

What the item is: Regency Summer Bonnet
The Challenge: #6 Travel
Fabric/Materials: Straw braid, faux flowers, feathers, 
Pattern: My own
Year: 1805
Notions: thread, ribbon
How historically accurate is it? Very.  Based on a fashion plate from 1805 and entirely hand-made
Hours to complete: Oi.  About 16-20
First worn: August 21st, 2016
Total cost: $40 CAD


A bonnet fit for a good frolic!

Pride and Prejudice Ball 2016

O.  M.  G.

I've scarcely had time to sleep let alone to write!  What an adventure the past few months have been.  After the May Regency Costume Fair I met so many lovely new clients!  Gowns and tailcoats were ordered.  Fabric purchased.  Mock ups were made and fitted.

And then at the second Costume Fair in September I had more inquiries about custom gowns!  With the ball fast approaching I hunkered down and put the pedal to the metal, so to speak.  I don't think I've ever sewn so fast in my life!  I made 35 custom pieces, all due and worn in one weekend.  That doesn't include in the various reticules and cravats I made, or any fans or feathers.

I'm pleasantly overwhelmed by the abundance!  It was a joy to meet with so many lovely people just as crazy as I am who want to join our Regency events.  How lovely it is to grow our community in such an immense way, and in such a short time no less!

We managed take group shots both evenings, which I'll post at a later date once they are available.

For now I'll leave you with this gem.  (Do please see Nanc Price's beautiful photos here: Saturday Photos .  I'm so pleased to have her as the photographer for this event!)

Do check out the hashtag #AustenYEG for more lovely photos!

Catching Up & Francaise Progress

The spring got away from me a little.  And by a little I mean HOLY HELL I WAS BUSY!  I adore my new job, but it was crazy costuming so many people on such short notice.  Such is the way of the world!  I'm so thankful for the opportunity.  That said, I've had little time to focus on NutmegSews.

At the end of May, Regency Encounters held a Regency Fashion Fair to outfit all our newcomers with Regency regalia.  How exciting!  I jumped at the chance to participate.  I had a comprehensive plan to make all kinds of ready-made items in all sizes and styles.  Because of all the free time I have.  *eye roll*  I did get a few items ready to sell, plus I had a ton of patterns and fans to offer.

It was a huge success!  For my first craft sale I'm exceedingly pleased with the result.  I worked hard at making sure my booth was on brand and welcoming to guests.  B even came with to be the money-taker, simple-question-answerer, bag-boy, etc.  I spent most of the time discussing custom orders with clients and he sold the ready-made items.  I'm glad I didn't finish all the dresses I planned to as most people want something made just for them.  I finished a few sample dresses in my size so we could discuss styles and desires on the spot.

It was so fun to meet all the new people to our little Regency Community!  I'm delighted they've found us.  With all the events coming up this summer and fall, I'm now booked until November.  YAY!

That's in addition to Costume College..

Right.  Costume College.  It kind of snuck up on me.  Best laid plans and all that.

My Robe a la Francaise is coming along.  I FINALLY dug it out of it's laundry basket this week.  Yes, I use laundry baskets for fabric.  Turns out I was a bit farther than I remembered.  I've draped the back panels and tacked them together to trim to size.  Now I need to remove the tacking, cut the other side, and sew together properly.  The petticoat is hemmed and now on Judy pleated and ready to be sewn into the ties.  Now I need to drape the front and the sleeves.

I've started to think about how I'm going to decorate the dress.  I really love the skirt on this guy:

From the MET collection, 1750-75:
http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81655?rpp=30&pg=24&rndkey=20141205&ft=*&deptids=8&when=A.D.%2B1600-1800&pos=713&imgNo=0&tabName=related-objects

For the sleeves and robings I'll go with something like this:

Portrait of a Lady by French School, ca 1772-85 France, the Bowes Museum

I did find one in almost an identical print that has self-decoration, but I have a fondness for silk organza so I'll just do pleated rows of that.  I still have no idea what I'm doing for the stomacher.  That's future Meg's problem.  Likely lots of bows, because BOWS!

And that's it for now, friends.  I'm snowed under with commissions.  Back to sewing!

Cheers,
~M

1806 Soutache Gown

I'm pleased to say that I finished my elaborate soutache gown in time for the ball!

To recap:  I've been dreaming of this lovely portrait for ages.  It's elaborate and subtle at the same time.  The folds of the sleeves have me captivated.

1806, Hortense de Beauharnais with her son Napoleon Charles by Fraincois-Pascal-Simon Gerard

I'm not a particular fan of white dresses so I opted to use some lavender satin from my stash instead. I substituted the gold trim for a white soutache (have I mentioned I LOVE soutache...?).

I started with Laughing Moon #126 as my base dress.  It fits me perfectly so I didn't need to do another fitting.  Or so I thought...

Figuring out the exact pattern of the skirt panels took longer than I'd like to admit.  It's four separate pieces sewn in a zigzag to make the criss-cross pattern.  Since I used my machine to sew it it didn't take long at all.  I started the project early thinking I would have to hand sew it, but once I figured out how to do it by machine it zipped along quite well!

Marking out the intersections with dots.

The sleeves were a bit of a puzzle.  Since I can't see the back I just sort of guessed how they were pleated.  I have to say, I truly love the affect of pleated sleeves.  I interlined them with cotton so give them a bit of body and did three panels of soutache.  It's the same pattern as the skirt, but in a smaller scale.  Again, figuring that out took longer than I'd like to admit!  I also had to angle the outside lines of trim so they'd look straight once pleated.  Man, am I glad I thought of that before sewing!

Skinnier version of the skirt detail.

The delicate sheer trim along the neckline didn't entirely turn out the way I'd like, but it'll do.  Mine didn't stick up the way I'd hoped :\

The bodice front was easy; I sewed a 3/8" piece of folded silk organza into the top edge of the bodice.  Easy peasy.  This had to be done before the trim along the top as it was too close to the seam allowance to do afterwards.

I had quite the time fitting the bodice!  I've never made the fitted version before so it was a bit of trial and error to get it to sit properly around my stays.  I have a large cup size and small band size so I often need an arm scythe dart.  I don't believe it's period appropriate, but that's what I had to do here.  See the GIANT side dart?

The neckline was WAY too high so I lowered it about an inch.  Felt like I was wearing a Regency turtle neck!

The rest of the neckline trim is just a tube of silk organza held in place by loops of ribbon.  Again, I'd like it to have a little height, but it was done the night before the ball and I was done with this dress-puzzle.

Making things up as I go!

Have you ever made a tassel?  They are quite therapeutic.  I made sure mine hung down a little to avoid a pasty look.

What the item is: 1806 Regency Gown

The Challenge: #2 Pleats and Tucks

Fabric/Materials: Poly satin, cotton/rayon soutache, cotton interlining, silk organiza

Pattern: Laughing Moon #126

Year: 1806

Notions: So. Much. Soutache. 24 yards, in fact!

How historically accurate is it? I'd say 50%-ish.  Mostly synthetic materials and I machine stitched it, but the overall look is quite close to the portrait.

Hours to complete: About 20-25.

First worn: February 27th, 2016

Total cost: $30.  I only had to buy the soutache and some thread.

Up Next:
Paniers!

P.S.  Look what I found!  It's a crochet turtle measuring tape.  Much delight was had by all at work the day I brought this friend to say hello.  He's even featured in a movie!

Stays, More Stays, and a Chemise

Remember how I lost my blue stays?  Yeah, me too.  I made a replacement pair, but I was never really happy with them.  I decided to dive in and make the Laughing Moon corded stays #115.

The pattern is quite simple.  Sewing a bazillion (!) channels is tedious, but so worth in in the end.  I traced my pattern using a fancy iron-erasable pen and then sewed and sewed and sewed.  I've had a roll of butcher's twine kicking around that was perfectly suited to the project.

Because the channels intersect, you need to sew them in a particular order.  You sew a few, thread them with twine, then sew a few more.  Since I love puzzles I really enjoyed the challenge.

Behold!  Stays!

What the item is: Regency Corded Corset
Challenge: Procrastination
Fabric: Cotton exterior and interlining, linen lining
Pattern: Laughing Moon 115
Year: 1805-1840
Notions: Cotton butcher's twine, cable ties, cotton bias tape, ribbon, lacing
Accuracy: 70% - all machine sewn, and I used plastic for the boning, but great pattern and appropriate materials

Just as I finished cording my new corset, B found my blue stays tucked in a random garment bag.  No idea how they stayed hidden for so long, but it means I now have two sets of stays.  Woo!

And of course what Regency lady would be complete without a chemise.  I've been meaning to make one forever and just never put the time in.  When I found the most luxurious cotton rayon blend.  It's a bitch to sew and press, but so comfy under my stays!

What the item is: Regency Chemise
Challenge: Procrastination
Fabric: Cotton rayon blend
Pattern: Laughing Moon 115
Year: 1805-1840
Notions: Bias tape and ribbon
Accuracy: 70%

~M 

A Christmas Spencer

All I want for Christmas is a Spencer.  Wait, that's not right...


I finally finished my Spencer!  I'm so happy with the way it turned out.  I spent many hours hand sewing the trim, but it was worth it.

It doesn't look like much from the front, especially on a mannequin that isn't the right shape.  I really love the deep V-neck.  It shows off the top of my gown quite nicely.  Eventually I'll add trim to the cuffs, but as usual I needed this for an event so something had to give. 

Don't you just love the love the points on the collar corners?  

It all started from this fashion plate.  Except I hate pink.  But the detail!  So delicious!  My apologies for not noting the source.  It was uploaded to Pinterest without any references.  If anyone knows the source please comment and let me know!  I assume Ackerman's.

I've never used soutache before.  I basically made it as I went along.  I started by marking out the pattern I wanted: 

Then I realized I didn't need quite so much chalk...

From there, I just hand stiched it down.  And voila!  A collar!

I think I want soutache on everything.

The back was a bit trickier.  Looking at the fashion plate I realized that they placed designs under the arm.  Knowing I was short on time I wasn't particularly interested in decorating my arm pits.  I stuck with the basics and really, no one noticed I didn't have fancy arm pits.  

The back seam pattern was easy.  I just had to remember to start at the stop and work my way down.  I wanted to make sure it was cross-crossed evenly.  I wasn't happy with the way I originally marked the centre piece.  I seemed to get lost in the seam decor.  I lengthened the design a bit and ended up with this: 

A little Regency punk, no?

For those who know me, "badass" isn't among my oft described characteristics.  At this point it looked a little biker chic.  I wasn't planning on adding the ruffle noted in the pattern, but I felt obligated now just to soften the line a bit.

Behold!  A Spencer!

The details:

Regency Spencer

Challenge #12: ReDo

Redoing challenge: #9 Brown

Fabric: Wool

Pattern: Laughing Moon #129

Year: 1799-1809

Notions: Burgundy soutache

Accuracy: 70%?  I did use poly lining because silk is so hard to get here I'll be damned if I waste it on lining!

Hours: 15

First Worn: Dec 13th for a Regency hymn service and tea

Cost: $45 CAD