Stays, More Stays, and a Chemise

Remember how I lost my blue stays?  Yeah, me too.  I made a replacement pair, but I was never really happy with them.  I decided to dive in and make the Laughing Moon corded stays #115.

The pattern is quite simple.  Sewing a bazillion (!) channels is tedious, but so worth in in the end.  I traced my pattern using a fancy iron-erasable pen and then sewed and sewed and sewed.  I've had a roll of butcher's twine kicking around that was perfectly suited to the project.

Because the channels intersect, you need to sew them in a particular order.  You sew a few, thread them with twine, then sew a few more.  Since I love puzzles I really enjoyed the challenge.

Behold!  Stays!

What the item is: Regency Corded Corset
Challenge: Procrastination
Fabric: Cotton exterior and interlining, linen lining
Pattern: Laughing Moon 115
Year: 1805-1840
Notions: Cotton butcher's twine, cable ties, cotton bias tape, ribbon, lacing
Accuracy: 70% - all machine sewn, and I used plastic for the boning, but great pattern and appropriate materials

Just as I finished cording my new corset, B found my blue stays tucked in a random garment bag.  No idea how they stayed hidden for so long, but it means I now have two sets of stays.  Woo!

And of course what Regency lady would be complete without a chemise.  I've been meaning to make one forever and just never put the time in.  When I found the most luxurious cotton rayon blend.  It's a bitch to sew and press, but so comfy under my stays!

What the item is: Regency Chemise
Challenge: Procrastination
Fabric: Cotton rayon blend
Pattern: Laughing Moon 115
Year: 1805-1840
Notions: Bias tape and ribbon
Accuracy: 70%

~M 

Overdue Post and Lost Stays

It's been so long I hardly know what to write!

So many things have happened in the last few months.  First, Regency Encounters was kind enough to host a ball in Calgary.  As you've seen I made an outfit for B to attend with me.  He decided to be more Darcy than Bingley and sit pridefully looking on from the corner.  He did look dashing if I do say so myself.

I finished sewing all our garments on the way to Calgary.  On four hours sleep.  Not my brightest move, but necessary.

Sewing-wise things were quiet for a few months after that until last week I was asked to participate in a promotional photo shoot for an upcoming Regency event: a Promenade and Tea!  How exciting!  That's when I discovered my stays did not come home from Calgary.  They 'stayed' too long at the ball.  (necessary pun)

I already needed a day dress for the Tea, but now I needed stays too.  Somehow I managed to get my new stays and day dress done in 4 days in time for the photo shoot.  Go me!  I still want to add some Van Dyke trim to jazz it up a bit, but I'm quite happy with the stripes.

Photo by Bryan Young/St Albert Gazette

The St Albert Gazette did a wonderful job on the photos and article!  See the whole article here:
http://www.stalbertgazette.com/article/20150711/SAG0302/307119981/-1/sag/regency-tea-party-brings-style-to-st-albert

The dress was based around my new bonnet. It was made completely of stash materials, which I'm super happy with.  I recycled some sketchy interfacing, repurposed some satin, and used up the last of the random ribbon I bought for my wedding.  I'm quite pleased with the results.

Up next, a new stove pipe hat and Van Dyke trim.

~M

Getting Back on Track

My sewing has stalled of late.  I'm working on a gaggle of projects for a Regency ball in May, but stopped to make a lovely Spring dress for myself for a fundraiser I was volunteering for.  It's a beautiful SpoonFlower fabric I bought last year.  It's a buttery yellow with a pink and turquoise flower border.  What could be better for a springtime-themed event?

Of course I was still sewing the day of the event.  Of course.  I just finished the zipper and tried it when I realized that I've somehow changed shape since I padded out my mannequin in January.  The dress was 3" too big!  All that work for naught.

Blast and damn!

I won't lie, this set me back a few weeks.  I was planning to make a new set of Regency stays since I've had so many issues with my February set plus make a new ball gown for May, but it's a tad tricky when you don't have an appropriately sized mannequin.  (Note: I drape as many patterns as I can because I don't particularly like drafting.  Draping cuts out the first round of fitting which saves time when I'm making things for me.)

Last weekend I decided to tackle my stays.  I was debating whether I should stick with the pattern I have or buy a new and start from scratch.  When I get in these indecisive moods it can take quite a bit of time to sort myself out.  I usually spend my time 'researching' on Pinterest and convincing myself of several different things at once affectionately known as procrasti-pinteresting (not a word, just a Meg-ism; note variations as procrasti-sewing, procrasti-cleaning, and procrasti-shopping).  I was also trying to find buttons for B's 1932 housecoat, his frockcoat and vest, and figure out if the silk I bought for my gown was even appropriate or it pogey bait.  For a description on pogey bait, see the Dreamstress' posts here.

Anyway, I decided to stick with my current stays.  I'm trying to limit the amount of UFOs and miscellania I keep around.  Truns out, I only needed to add a busk pocket, tie the ties higher, and take in one hip gusset.  Victory!  I will spare you the photos of my Regency 'shelf' until I have a proper chemise.

Since I'm starting from scratch for B's outfit I've decided to put his sewing first.  As much as I wanted to sew his shirt entirely by hand I just don't have time.  Yesterday I finished the shirt.

Historical Sew Monthly Info

The Challenge: #4 War & Peace. Though I'm also counting this a #1 Foundations since this is the first time I've strayed into men's clothing and done these type of hand stitches.

Fabric: Hankerchief linen

Pattern: Kannik's Korner Man's shirt, 1790-1830

Year: 1790-1830, will be worn for a Regency ball

Notions: Cotton thread, buttons (eventually)

How historically accurate is it? I'd say 70%. Accurate fabric and pattern, but mostly machine sewn. Edges are finished by hand so you can't see the machine stitches.

Hours to complete: 7

First worn: Will be worn May 16 to a ball. Fingers crossed there's a frock coat to go with this or madness will ensue!

Total cost: $32

The vest is cut and ready to be sewn.  Maybe done by tomorrow...?  Then frock coat mock-up.  And I suppose I should make him breeches...

~M