1806 Soutache Gown

I'm pleased to say that I finished my elaborate soutache gown in time for the ball!

To recap:  I've been dreaming of this lovely portrait for ages.  It's elaborate and subtle at the same time.  The folds of the sleeves have me captivated.

1806, Hortense de Beauharnais with her son Napoleon Charles by Fraincois-Pascal-Simon Gerard

I'm not a particular fan of white dresses so I opted to use some lavender satin from my stash instead. I substituted the gold trim for a white soutache (have I mentioned I LOVE soutache...?).

I started with Laughing Moon #126 as my base dress.  It fits me perfectly so I didn't need to do another fitting.  Or so I thought...

Figuring out the exact pattern of the skirt panels took longer than I'd like to admit.  It's four separate pieces sewn in a zigzag to make the criss-cross pattern.  Since I used my machine to sew it it didn't take long at all.  I started the project early thinking I would have to hand sew it, but once I figured out how to do it by machine it zipped along quite well!

Marking out the intersections with dots.

The sleeves were a bit of a puzzle.  Since I can't see the back I just sort of guessed how they were pleated.  I have to say, I truly love the affect of pleated sleeves.  I interlined them with cotton so give them a bit of body and did three panels of soutache.  It's the same pattern as the skirt, but in a smaller scale.  Again, figuring that out took longer than I'd like to admit!  I also had to angle the outside lines of trim so they'd look straight once pleated.  Man, am I glad I thought of that before sewing!

Skinnier version of the skirt detail.

The delicate sheer trim along the neckline didn't entirely turn out the way I'd like, but it'll do.  Mine didn't stick up the way I'd hoped :\

The bodice front was easy; I sewed a 3/8" piece of folded silk organza into the top edge of the bodice.  Easy peasy.  This had to be done before the trim along the top as it was too close to the seam allowance to do afterwards.

I had quite the time fitting the bodice!  I've never made the fitted version before so it was a bit of trial and error to get it to sit properly around my stays.  I have a large cup size and small band size so I often need an arm scythe dart.  I don't believe it's period appropriate, but that's what I had to do here.  See the GIANT side dart?

The neckline was WAY too high so I lowered it about an inch.  Felt like I was wearing a Regency turtle neck!

The rest of the neckline trim is just a tube of silk organza held in place by loops of ribbon.  Again, I'd like it to have a little height, but it was done the night before the ball and I was done with this dress-puzzle.

Making things up as I go!

Have you ever made a tassel?  They are quite therapeutic.  I made sure mine hung down a little to avoid a pasty look.

What the item is: 1806 Regency Gown

The Challenge: #2 Pleats and Tucks

Fabric/Materials: Poly satin, cotton/rayon soutache, cotton interlining, silk organiza

Pattern: Laughing Moon #126

Year: 1806

Notions: So. Much. Soutache. 24 yards, in fact!

How historically accurate is it? I'd say 50%-ish.  Mostly synthetic materials and I machine stitched it, but the overall look is quite close to the portrait.

Hours to complete: About 20-25.

First worn: February 27th, 2016

Total cost: $30.  I only had to buy the soutache and some thread.

Up Next:
Paniers!

P.S.  Look what I found!  It's a crochet turtle measuring tape.  Much delight was had by all at work the day I brought this friend to say hello.  He's even featured in a movie!

Stays, More Stays, and a Chemise

Remember how I lost my blue stays?  Yeah, me too.  I made a replacement pair, but I was never really happy with them.  I decided to dive in and make the Laughing Moon corded stays #115.

The pattern is quite simple.  Sewing a bazillion (!) channels is tedious, but so worth in in the end.  I traced my pattern using a fancy iron-erasable pen and then sewed and sewed and sewed.  I've had a roll of butcher's twine kicking around that was perfectly suited to the project.

Because the channels intersect, you need to sew them in a particular order.  You sew a few, thread them with twine, then sew a few more.  Since I love puzzles I really enjoyed the challenge.

Behold!  Stays!

What the item is: Regency Corded Corset
Challenge: Procrastination
Fabric: Cotton exterior and interlining, linen lining
Pattern: Laughing Moon 115
Year: 1805-1840
Notions: Cotton butcher's twine, cable ties, cotton bias tape, ribbon, lacing
Accuracy: 70% - all machine sewn, and I used plastic for the boning, but great pattern and appropriate materials

Just as I finished cording my new corset, B found my blue stays tucked in a random garment bag.  No idea how they stayed hidden for so long, but it means I now have two sets of stays.  Woo!

And of course what Regency lady would be complete without a chemise.  I've been meaning to make one forever and just never put the time in.  When I found the most luxurious cotton rayon blend.  It's a bitch to sew and press, but so comfy under my stays!

What the item is: Regency Chemise
Challenge: Procrastination
Fabric: Cotton rayon blend
Pattern: Laughing Moon 115
Year: 1805-1840
Notions: Bias tape and ribbon
Accuracy: 70%

~M 

A Christmas Spencer

All I want for Christmas is a Spencer.  Wait, that's not right...


I finally finished my Spencer!  I'm so happy with the way it turned out.  I spent many hours hand sewing the trim, but it was worth it.

It doesn't look like much from the front, especially on a mannequin that isn't the right shape.  I really love the deep V-neck.  It shows off the top of my gown quite nicely.  Eventually I'll add trim to the cuffs, but as usual I needed this for an event so something had to give. 

Don't you just love the love the points on the collar corners?  

It all started from this fashion plate.  Except I hate pink.  But the detail!  So delicious!  My apologies for not noting the source.  It was uploaded to Pinterest without any references.  If anyone knows the source please comment and let me know!  I assume Ackerman's.

I've never used soutache before.  I basically made it as I went along.  I started by marking out the pattern I wanted: 

Then I realized I didn't need quite so much chalk...

From there, I just hand stiched it down.  And voila!  A collar!

I think I want soutache on everything.

The back was a bit trickier.  Looking at the fashion plate I realized that they placed designs under the arm.  Knowing I was short on time I wasn't particularly interested in decorating my arm pits.  I stuck with the basics and really, no one noticed I didn't have fancy arm pits.  

The back seam pattern was easy.  I just had to remember to start at the stop and work my way down.  I wanted to make sure it was cross-crossed evenly.  I wasn't happy with the way I originally marked the centre piece.  I seemed to get lost in the seam decor.  I lengthened the design a bit and ended up with this: 

A little Regency punk, no?

For those who know me, "badass" isn't among my oft described characteristics.  At this point it looked a little biker chic.  I wasn't planning on adding the ruffle noted in the pattern, but I felt obligated now just to soften the line a bit.

Behold!  A Spencer!

The details:

Regency Spencer

Challenge #12: ReDo

Redoing challenge: #9 Brown

Fabric: Wool

Pattern: Laughing Moon #129

Year: 1799-1809

Notions: Burgundy soutache

Accuracy: 70%?  I did use poly lining because silk is so hard to get here I'll be damned if I waste it on lining!

Hours: 15

First Worn: Dec 13th for a Regency hymn service and tea

Cost: $45 CAD

Why you Should Get a Custom Gown

If you've never had clothing custom made for you the process can be a bit daunting.  Your sewist will ask for all kinds of crazy measurements you didn't even know existed and it can get a bit pricey.  So here's a quick guide to explain why it's one of the best decisions you'll make, especially when it comes to costumes and historical sewing.

1. Creative license - You get to completely customize your order.  Whether you are buying a complete outfit, or just a few accessories, it's all up to you and your sewist!  Working with a professional sewist is like working with any other type of designer.  You can show up with a random smattering of ideas and they can help you put it together into a cohesive look.  Seriously, they know what they are doing and pretty much anything is possible.

2. Value - Yeah, okay, it costs more than most clothing.  This is due to what my friend calls, "The Walmart Effect."  We are professional designers and often artists so expect to pay a fair wage.  I don't know any seamstress that charges an outrageous amount per hour, and most things are negotiable.  If you want a grand, 18th century court dress for $100... well, just keep walking there, skipper!  But if you want a certain look that can be achieved with pieces you already have that can be altered, and maybe you just need a certain piece custom made we can help you.  For reals, we like puzzles.  But be prepared to pay what it's worth or just be honest and tell them your budget.  Because you are having something tailor made for you it will wear better and last longer.  So really, it's a great value.  Plus, once you've found a great sewist you can go back and ask for more things and they already know your body.

3. Fit - Helping design a project may be out of your comfort zone, and it cost a bit more than you expected, but when you put on your finished custom made garment... oh man!  Nothing compares to how it feels to have something fit you perfectly without any of the discomfort of an ill-fitting garment.  You'll wear it SO MUCH!  Even if it's a costume or reenactment outfit, you'll be surprised at how many opportunities you'll find to wear it once you have the perfect garment.

I'm sure there are more reasons, but let's just stick with the 3.  I'm a stickler for #3!

As a sewist and tailoress, creating a garment that captures someone's personality is such a gift.  Fit is fairly easy if you've paid attention in sewing and drafting class, but the act of working with someone and actually making a garment that meets, and often, exceeds their expectations is THE BEST.

And it's gosh darn fun!

So, here's my promo for the day.  I make custom gowns and costumes.  For reals.  I really love making people Regency gowns as so many woman believe they can't wear them.  Oh yes you can!

And I can help you with that.

And wouldn't you know it, Regency Encounters is having another ball in February.  You think Lizzy Bennet went to Mr. Bingley's ball in an ill-fitting, hand-me-down dress?  Surely, not!  So why should you?

Check out my Etsy shop for more details.  Again, it's completely customizable.  I'll even make you a matching reticule!

You know you want a matching reticule...

~M

Costume College Here I Come!

YOU GUYS!  I got my tickets for Costume College 2016!

I'm so overwhelmed with all the emotions.  So many of my costume heroines will be there!  I might actually get to meet them.  Wee!

Now, to figure out what to wear...

Pool party: Romper?  New bathing suit?

Ice cream social: Sherbert Robe a l'Anglaise

Gala:  1770s court dress made of this beauty:

I got 9m of this silk fabric for $11.  Yeah, $11!  And some really love trims from the Fashion Under Siege fabric sale.

Sunday Tea: Regency something or other.  I'll probably be a zombie by this time so whatevs.

Monday fabric shopping: comfy shoes and a big purse.

What's even better about going to CoCo?  B wants to come too!  Not to the conference, but to LA!  Woo!

I'm just too excited!

1912 Mrs Banks: Butterick 6093

I could watch Mary Poppins every day.  All day.  So, for Halloween this year I decided to be Mrs. Banks.  The movie Suffragette just came out (in Canada, at least) so it was a perfect time to go for it.

I have no idea where there the umbrella came from...

I wanted a similar look and feel without being an exact replica of the dress.  For starters, I hate high-necked things.  Probably why I shy away from Edwardian all together.  I started with Butterick 6093.  I read a few reviews before starting and decided it would be a perfect starting point.

I had a piece of blue poly suiting I got in the discount bin for last year's Roman costume so decided to hack it up for this.  I purchased a little pale yellow taffeta and started ruffling.  I'm pretty happy with the result.

I made a few fitting adjustments at the bust, as usual.  I gathered things a little differently than the pattern called for.  But then, I rarely follow the pattern anyway...

I wanted a similar petticoat to the movie costume without spending an entire weekend making a separate petticoat.  I decided to simply add a ruffle to the bottom of the underskirt.  It was just a tad long...

Bathroom selfie for the win!

After a bit of fiddling, and some interesting advice from B regarding ribbon placement, I finished the whole thing in a weekend.  Less, because who works on one thing in a weekend?

I'm super proud of the hat.  I really love millinery and wish I had more opportunity for it.  If I could just make hats all day I'd probably die happy.  But, alas.

I have no idea if this is what an Edwardian hat should look like.  I wanted something particularly non-datable for future flexibility.

And there you have it!  An Edwardian-ish Mrs Banks.

Shoulder to shoulder into the fray!
Challenge #11: Silver Screen
Onscreen Inspiration: Mrs Banks from the 1964 Mary Poppins
Fabric: the most horrid polyester I've ever felt.  But, it's out of the stash.  Poly taffeta.
Pattern: Butterick 6093
Year: 1912
Notions: straw hat, ribbon, button form, snaps, bit of interfacing for the sash.
Accuracy: Fabric is way off, but the colours are good so maybe 50%?
Hours:  Not many.  From inspiration on a Friday evening to completion on Monday night, including all pieces.
First worn: October 29th to Scottish Country dancing (skip change is not meant for Edwardian dresses!)
Total cost: Almost all stash except the yellow taffeta, which was $12 CAD.  Hat was $13 CAD, but I'll re-use it.


~M

Fall Photo Contest Entry

I finished it!  Well, mostly.

My entry for Emily's Vintage Visions Fall Photo Contest:

The timing of the contest was perfect!  I already had the blouse and trousers in the works.  While I didn't get the trousers I wanted to completed, I already had these ones.  The blouse is from the Smooth Sailing pattern.  The print has flowers and bees in perfect fall colours.  Maybe bees aren't autumnal...?

The jacket is a gift from my Dad.  I've always felt it has a little 1940s feel to it so it was a great addition to this outfit.  I panicked a little because it's been so darn cold the past week.  I though for sure I wouldn't be able to find a tree with any leaves left, but I did!  Huzzah!

The brooch is something near to my heart.  Not because it's heart, but because I got it from the first real costuming job I had.  I moved across the country to work at Fort Edmonton Park, and when I started working in costume one day a week I bought this beauty to wear with my 1884 bustle dress.

And now for the hat.  I had my outfit all planned out until I remembered I don't have an appropriate hat!  Ack!  But then Jill of Adeline's Attic posted this little number for sale.  Don't mind if I do!

I made the mistake of following the directions, which I sure won't do again.  The hat has a bit more personality than I anticipated.  Such is life.

All in all I'm quite happy with this adventure.  It's such a joy to participate in contests like these.  I love getting to see all the entries in the Facebook page.  I do hope this is a yearly thing!

Up next:
I have no idea.  Maybe I'll finish my winter coat before the snow?